Distributor not turning when cranking engine.

[Napa Skip]

While you have the timing gear cover off, check the camshaft thrust plunger and spring. Page 40 of volume 1 of "How to Restore Your Model A" lists a spring tension of 35 lbs.

 

[Theo]

Ok, update for you guys


After some serious struggle, I finally got the thing off. I used the wood block method, and a 1/2 breaker bar with the special socket attached to it, and a 4 foot long pipe. Took forever but it came off. cleaned the oil pan as well.

I ordered a metal gear.

Now my question is, I know for a fact the camshaft has moved around a bit. Do I just bolt on the new metal gear and go, or do I have to align it/move it to a certain point? I already test fit it and it will fit in those two dowel pins just fine, just asking before I bolt on and gr when I set timing later will that straighten it out?

tah

 

[Patrick L.]

The dowels have to align to mount the gear and the timing marks on both gears have to align. Add a dab[technical term] of grease to the end of the plunger and pour some oil on the gears.

 

[Bob C]

I think Tom posted this picture of the timing marks.

Bob

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Thanks Bob, you save me some work.

Be sure the oil slinger is in place on the crankshaft. It may cover the timing mark some, but just follow the line straight up from the RIGHT side of the keyway, and that is the tooth that aligns with the mark in the cam gear.

A screwdriver between the camshaft dowels will help rotate the cam, if need be, before installing the gear.

 

[Purdy Swoft]

I've bought and tried a few of the socket tools from different vendors, most don't fit worth a damn!!! Save yourself some time and money, use a chisel and hammer to remove the cam nut as most have done for over eighty years, Its just common sense. I've removed and replaced lots of timing gears over the past 53 years and all showed Chisel marks where they had been previously removed and replaced. I use the modern hex cam nut that is now offered by most model A parts houses. The hex nut is easier to remove and replace, and makes torqueing the cam nut easy. There is no good reason to struggle with the odd ball original type cam nut, now that a hex cam nut is available.

 

[Theo]

Thank you all for your help! I will have her back on the road by this weekend then!!!

And Purdy you are right about the tool... kept slipping off. Was a pain in the *** but finally got it off. Replaced it with the hex nut you speak of. Worked great.