Distributor drive gear

Yes iit is worse! will check lower shaft, is the only oil to this area thru distributor oiling?
Seems to be dry and rusty in the area

Thanks
 
When running the engine that is where the condensation likes to settle, so I give the shafts a good coat of grease when I install them. Antiseize on the distributor will help to keep it from rusting in place.
 
I too have a stuck distributor, ordered the tool, but quick question...If the engine and crank turn freely when trying to start and distributor is not turning, is my issue more severe? Or is that typical? Seems to me, if the distributor is stuck and not spinning, it would bind when engine turns, correct?
 
If your engine is 'turning over', the distributor is connected mechanically thru shaft(s)/ cam gear, etc. It dist NOT turning, most likely you have a serious mechanical failure, i.e.- broken shafts/broken drive gears. Pull the dist and look at end. Start there.
 
lesismore said:
I too have a stuck distributor, ordered the tool, but quick question...If the engine and crank turn freely when trying to start and distributor is not turning, is my issue more severe? Or is that typical? Seems to me, if the distributor is stuck and not spinning, it would bind when engine turns, correct?
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YEA not good.

Can you spin the distributor cam all the way around?
Could also be a stripped timing gear. Pull a plug and see if valves open and close with the crank.
 
lesismore said:
I too have a stuck distributor, ordered the tool, but quick question...If the engine and crank turn freely when trying to start and distributor is not turning, is my issue more severe? Or is that typical? Seems to me, if the distributor is stuck and not spinning, it would bind when engine turns, correct?
Click to expand...






It sounds to me as though you have a bad camshaft gear. Thats the likely culprit. The distributor shaft or drive gear could be bad, but, the cam gear most likely is missing a few teeth.
 
some claim that the one piece dist. shaft will wear the housing bushings faster,I don't know if this is true or not.
 
So I got the distributor puller, threaded it into the shaft, removed the screw on the block, then started to slowly tighten the nut on the puller, reached reasonable torque than pulled back. How much is too much? What else can be holding it in? Or am I just babying it? I am afraid to break anything. Am I missing something or do I just have it stuck good and have to keep working at it? Thoughts?
 
If you are using the distributor puller tool, then you should break the housing. They can get very stuck. Did you spray Kroil in the setscrew hole and on the head?
 
In the set screw hole but nowhere else, where should I spray it? At the base of housing or inside of housing somewhere? Are you saying with the tool I will break the housing regardless? So if I really muscle it, I can't hurt anything? I just need to break its seal?
 
Spray where the distributor meets the head. Since the tools pulls on the distributor shaft, and the shaft will be pushing straight up on the center of the casting, you should never have to worry about breaking the housing.

Prying on the side of the body is what can easily break the housing.
 
OK, will continue to soak, so there is nothing but crud holding it in at this point? Cranking on the puller will do no internal damage correct? Should I pull the side cover to watch progress? Sorry for the questions, never had a distributor problem an any of my As, this new one is causing some stress.
 
Patrick L. said:
It sounds to me as though you have a bad camshaft gear. Thats the likely culprit. The distributor shaft or drive gear could be bad, but, the cam gear most likely is missing a few teeth.
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Possibly, but then it wouldn't be running great at 55 mph........
I suggest you look at all the associated parts. Pull the side timing gear cover (2 bolts on side and oil pan bolt) to inspect the timing gear teeth. Rotate engine full revolution to inspect the timing gear.
you can also check for backlash at that point ( although the cam is under load) but can carefully pry to see if you have excessive backlash. I doubt it though.

Correcting instructions....As indicated by another post about removing the drive gear assembly you do not "pry up on the drive gear against the spring"..... you remove the spring following the distributor removal and intermediate shaft, by pushing down on the spring and pivoting top of the spring out towards you... then lift the distributor drive assembly out of engine block. Inspect & service if tang/gear worn. Reverse to install.

It is normal for there to have a little play of the rotor rotation ( but not fit on cam - must be snug on cam). You can install a new intermediate shaft and check distributor mating slot for wear/fit .

I suspect if you have a lightened flywheel, or modified cam, etc.. that is your source of an idle not silk smooth, of course taking into account your carb and distributor are set/properly functioning. I would also check for a planed surface on your intake/exhaust manifold and good gasket as if they are sucking air they will cause poor idling ( among other things) as well.
I've tightening many a intake manifold bolts when idle didn't sound good. If you get lucky and the intake is flat and the gasket is still decent, just a little loose it's worth a check. I torque all evenly to 35 ft lbs.

And... I hate to make this simple but make sure you don't have any vacuum wiper leaks, sucking air! If in doubt put in an 1/8 pipe plug temporarily in the intake to eliminate it till you are for sure.

Setting points and timing is really simple on these... you don't need any fancy nurex tool, timing light, etc. Set you points according to the service bulletins taking into account the backlash and they will be right on every time.

Good luck!
Larry Shepard
 
for removing the distributor with the puller as Tom said use penetrating oil in the distributor hold down hole ( bolt/nut removed) and soak where distributor meets head . The one think I don't like about the distributor puller is .. it's only as strong as the small pin on the bottom shaft pin collar. Soft pins shear. soak, tap lightlight on top of housing with brass hammer, use careful common sense to keep upward tension and pull from puller on it. It will come. Clean and use antiseize when re-installing.
Larry S.
 
Chuck, I have no idea what cam is in my Engine, But replacing both worn shafts made a big improvement in idle and running! Thanks to all that offered advise, Ford Barn is Great!
 
willobs said:
Chuck, I have no idea what cam is in my Engine, But replacing both worn shafts made a big improvement in idle and running! Thanks to all that offered advise, Ford Barn is Great!
Click to expand...

The stock Model A distributor cam will have 8 distinct lines, one at each end of the lobe, while the B cam will only have 4 distinct lines. I can find and post a picture if you like.
 
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