Distributor Cap/Rotor

Robert/Texas

Robert/Texas

Well-known member
My ’28 roadster had been running well since I did some tune-up work on it around 10 months ago. Yesterday morning it wouldn’t start. When I tried to get the distributor cap off, the clip on the driver side was stuck/jammed on, but I was able to get the passenger side clip off and the driver side clip unjammed and the cap off. When I put the cap back on, the engine started right up. I assume that I should replace that cap and rotor but I’m not sure how/why this happened.
Has anyone else had this experience and how did you handle it?
Thanks, Robert
 
Removing the cap and replacing it may have nothing to do with the car starting. The center electrode in the cap should not be excessively worn. The cap should be clean. The spring contact on the rotor should be clean but do not sand it. It should have a good spring to it so that it makes contact with the cap. The metal arm where the spark jumps to the metal protrusions in the housing should be bent so that the gap is about 0.020. The housing should fit snug on the distributor so that it does not move around, which can make the gaps to the protrusions variable and not the same for all plugs.

I use the clear plastic cap. This is a good way to check the sparks when the car is running (or not running).

Next time it does not start, check the spark by holding the lead from the coil about 1/4 inch from the head while turning the engine over.
 
Thank you nkaminar.

I plan to follow your suggestions when I get the chance. I like the idea of using a clear plastic cap and plan to get one. I still think that something/somehow got jammed because after I replaced the cap it was then easily removed. I keep my old Fords in a rural area, 95 miles from my home. When I get back there, I’ll work on it and do the things that you suggested.

As I have owned this car and an early ’28 OCPU since the late 1980’s I’ve accumulated a lot of parts which might help me in this endeavor. Note, I’m a product of the great depression.

Thanks again, Robert
 
I was thinking �� your in Texas and it’s been really hot �� just have been just stuck ?
 
Similar but different to the clear dist cap. I made my own by cutting up and old cap.

The advantage of the clear is that you could leave it on all the time if you wanted.

The advantge of the home made top is its free, handy to use for testing purposes.
 

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This slide is another look at modifying a distributor cap:
 

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Sorry for the late response. I'm in Houston now. I had a cancer removed from my left leg two days ago. Now I'm sweltering in the heat with just a generator and small window A/C working.

After the tune-up I drove the car about every 2 weeks or so, mostly short runs of around 6 to 14 miles. It started an ran great until the episode.
 
This morning, I tried to start the car again although I hadn’t tried to start it for some time. It started but ran roughly, trying to stall. Adjusting the choke rod made no difference so I adjusted with a tiny lock jaw plier. What I discovered was that the nob had come loose from the shaft just enough to feel that it was still working. I think that the shaft is slightly bent so I’m planning to order a new one from one of the vendors. I've owned this car since 1989 and done a lot of work on it but I'm still learning.
Thanks again to everyone who tried to help.
Robert
 
Robert/Texas said:
This morning, I tried to start the car again although I hadn’t tried to start it for some time. It started but ran roughly, trying to stall. Adjusting the choke rod made no difference so I adjusted with a tiny lock jaw plier. What I discovered was that the nob had come loose from the shaft just enough to feel that it was still working. I think that the shaft is slightly bent so I’m planning to order a new one from one of the vendors. I've owned this car since 1989 and done a lot of work on it but I'm still learning.
Thanks again to everyone who tried to help.
Robert
Click to expand...

The knob screws onto the shaft, and Loctite works well. You could straighten a bent shaft by hand, gently. The new ones are chrome plated, not nickel, and I don’t think look as good.
 
Very common issue with the knob coming loose on a cheap repo choke rod. A quick fix is a dab of JB Weld.

Instead of throwing more $$ on a repo, call Bert's or Dan Bixby (816) 213-8437 for a correct functioning original choke rod ?
 
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