Distributor Cam Wrench

Wisconsinjimmy

Wisconsinjimmy

Senior Member
:confused:Slowly I am catching on to this Model A workings, do I need the wrench or is there another way to hold the cam while tightening the screw? Wish Dearborn would have said something when I was there on Tues.
 
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I've got the Nu-Rex one, but I haven't used it yet. My timing seems perfect to me, and I don't want to screw it up!!
 
I made one from an old distributor rotor. Remove the spring and drill a hole in the center large enough to fit the screwdriver through.

Jerry
 
If you're gonna get a wrench, might as well get the Nurex one to simplify setting the timing while you're at it...

NU-WRENCH.JPG
 
I used a pair of pliers for years before I got the wrench. Just make sure you take the backlash out before you tighten the screw.
 
Here is what I did, Remove old distributor upper plate and replace with modern upper plate, I did not turn the engine nor the distributor. Now I must set the point gap to .020 so I turn the cam until the points are on the high side lock down the screw and set the points to spec. I have removed the wire from the lower plate and condenser.
 
Wisconsinjimmy said:
Here is what I did, Remove old distributor upper plate and replace with modern upper plate, I did not turn the engine nor the distributor. Now I must set the point gap to .020 so I turn the cam until the points are on the high side lock down the screw and set the points to spec. I have removed the wire from the lower plate and condenser.
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Good luck with that. Let us know how the modern works out for you.
 
Jimmy,

From looking at your post.. you're watching your budget, as we all are these days. It takes a little to mess with these.. gaskets, parts, more parts, patience, attentiveness, mechanical ability, patience, parts... and more parts. Just know that some things are necessary.. some are not., If you're watching your budget you just talked about buying two things that aren't necessary. The new style upper plate.. which is junk... and the cam wrench. Now granted the cam wrenches are handy, but not necessary. set the points at .020 and along with the service bulletin procedure and make sure the cam backlash is accounted for so that the points just start to open when the backlash is taken up. Properly set, ignition on, spark retarded, rotate the cam to take up the backlash and the spark should fire ( hold coil wire to head stud). You can do this without a cam wrench, it just might take a time or two to get it set properly. Not a big deal. The new style upper plates are way more trouble than they are worth... Very hard to set the points and they really don't do anything positive for the car. if you were broke down on the side of the road the majority of model a folks wouldn't have the parts along with them to help. In my opinion.. they are a step backward. Sounds like a good improvement.. but isn't, and cost more.
I know my words are strong here but I've worked on too many and my experience tells me otherwise.
Don't skimp on gaskets either.. they are cheap! .. and not sure why you'd want too!
Best of luck!
Larry
 
I try to keep a full set of gaskets on hand at any time. Very small investment for the peace of mind. When I have occasion to use one of them, I just add that to the list of things for the next order. I have also been able to help out a friend a time or two. They have always replaced the gaskets the same way.
 
CarlG said:
I try to keep a full set of gaskets on hand at any time. Very small investment for the peace of mind. When I have occasion to use one of them, I just add that to the list of things for the next order. I have also been able to help out a friend a time or two. They have always replaced the gaskets the same way.
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YEP! Carl, & a complete gasket set, (minus the head gasket) is cheep!
When ordering small individual gaskets, drain plug gaskets, spark plug gaskets, oil drain pipe gaskets & copper washers, water inlet & outlet gaskets, etc, I usually order 3 or 4 extra & toss them in the gasket set box. Bill W.
 
The wrench is handy but I couldn't agree more with Larry about the modern points set up. You will be lucky if it runs at all . They only complicates things to the point that some model A's may never run again. The condenser with the setup in some cases is the main problem. The points are difficult to adjust. The ones that I have experience with have the points mounted in such a way that it effects the timing. I had to tweak the timing to find a medium.There is no advantage.

Carl and Bill are right about the gaskets , I also like to keep extras. In the old days I made what gaskets that I could out of cardboard boxes and kept a large tube of form a gasket on hand.
 
I had a lot of trouble with my (modern) points. The ones in there looked like they came off a lawnmower, and the bottom flange on a new rotor contacted the plastic rubbing block and prevented them from closing (I tried to replaced the rotor because the original one was almost worn thru). My grand-nephew (who is a top notch mechanic) fiddled and fussed and finally got the points to work correctly, after some dressing with a fine file and emery cloth.

I've decided to convert back to the original style points and upper and lower plates; I like the adjustment you can achieve with the original points block. I want this car to be as original as I can make it.
 
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