Distributor Body Question...

reverendjim

reverendjim

Member
I think I have my carb. problem fixed but the the miss and the backfire are still there. I checked the gap on the rotor to be sure it was @ .025. The number 2 cylinder is not firing. I have shorted from the plug to a head bolt with a screwdriver to check the spark. I cleaned the plug and switched it with the number 1 plug, still nothing on #2 but I figure the plug is good. Could it be that the distributor body has gone bad at the #2 contact?

Thanks,
James
 
Yes, if you have another distributor body, it would be easy to switch it out, but I usually find they short between 3 and 4. As Dave said, do a compression check. If it's low enough, you might even be able to tell by the way the starter skips over number two.
 
I put a clear cap on my distributor to help diagnose a miss and backfiring problem. I found that number 2 quit firing at about 1400 to 1500 RPM and then number 1 quit a bit later, as I continued to rev up the engine. The problem was solved when we found a loose connection to my alternator. Crimped the connector and problem solved.
 
I am beginning to wish I had left this car where I found it. My last Model A had been restored for over 40 years and had been sitting for over 10 when I got it and I had it running well in just a few hours. This one is supposed to be "new" and only sitting for a few months and I can't seem to get anywhere with it.
 
reverendjim said:
I think I have my carb. problem fixed but the the miss and the backfire are still there. I checked the gap on the rotor to be sure it was @ .025. The number 2 cylinder is not firing. I have shorted from the plug to a head bolt with a screwdriver to check the spark. I cleaned the plug and switched it with the number 1 plug, still nothing on #2 but I figure the plug is good. Could it be that the distributor body has gone bad at the #2 contact?

Thanks,
James
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Have to removed the spark plug lead and watched for spark to the plug?

I'm not sure I understand "I have shorted from the plug to a head bolt with a screwdriver to check the spark." was the spark plug still in the head?
 
Aren't the points supposed to be 18-22 thou rather than 25thou I normally set mine at 22 !
Don't despair!!! Jim the team on here will have the answers !!!

John Cochran
 
It also could be worn dist.body bushings,dist. cam wobbeling while turning and points not opening and closing properly.also dist.point plate not tight enough to dist. shaft.
 
other things to check :::::

check for a vacuum leak to #2 cylinder around manifold gaskets

check spark to #2 plug with an inline spark tester

remove #2 plug and make sure both valves are opening and closing when turning motor

do a compression test

do a leak down test
 
I was going to go get a gauge to check the compression this morning. As I went through the garage I decided to check again. It started fairly easy and the #2 plug was getting fire, then it died and would not start back. It was not getting any fire to the points. I messed with the wire from the switch and then it lit the test light. I took the instrument panel loose and tighten the screws that hold the wires and now it starts and runs good and fires on all four. The guy who restored this car supposedly spent over $40000.00 on the restoration but they used what must be a cheap made ignition switch. Could it be the culprit?

James
 
I've had similar issues and have traced the problem to the cheap ignition switch and ammeter. The ammeter terminal insulator melted causing a loose connection and one of the posts on the cheap ignition switch is loose and has an intermittent problem. I have new parts coming from Snyders and have opted for the best switch they have, a repop of the original pop out switch, but the only option for an ammeter was the same cheap version that my dad installed just a few years ago. I will be looking for a quality used USA built ammeter.

reverendjim: I see you live in SE TN. I live just across the border in western NC, not too far from Maggie Valley and Waynesville.
 
mcorrell said:
I've had similar issues and have traced the problem to the cheap ignition switch and ammeter. The ammeter terminal insulator melted causing a loose connection and one of the posts on the cheap ignition switch is loose and has an intermittent problem. I have new parts coming from Snyders and have opted for the best switch they have, a repop of the original pop out switch, but the only option for an ammeter was the same cheap version that my dad installed just a few years ago. I will be looking for a quality used USA built ammeter.

reverendjim: I see you live in SE TN. I live just across the border in western NC, not too far from Maggie Valley and Waynesville.
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I had a repro from Snyder's on my 28 and it seemed to work well. My amp meter is not working. The generator is putting out but the meter is not showing charge or discharge. I've ordered two new ones now and both have had the needles laying in the bottom of the housing. I have taken one apart and put the needle back and it seems to be working for now. I'll be ordering a new switch today I guess.

We live near a little town called etowah, TN and come over to Murphy, NC to eat at Rib Country often. Its about an hour away but my wife loves it. My grandmother was from Franklin Co. and my grandfathers people are from Hendersonville. If you are ever over there on the Dr. Staton memorial hwy its named after one of my dad's cousins.
 
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Dick Crabtree in S.D. rebuilds original switches and offers them at a fair price. Buy quality and buy it once.
 
My Son, Mitch//pa, sent me a GOOD, heavy duty switch & fat cable from Tam's Model A parts, along with his shop "T" shirts, sweat shirts, an old, restored Sunnen torque wrench, 6 NIFTY shop key rings, & enuff JET-FUEL coffee to keep me AWAKE fur MONTHS!!! (LUV you, my MAN!)
Bill W.
 
reverendjim said:
I was going to go get a gauge to check the compression this morning. As I went through the garage I decided to check again. It started fairly easy and the #2 plug was getting fire, then it died and would not start back. It was not getting any fire to the points. I messed with the wire from the switch and then it lit the test light. I took the instrument panel loose and tighten the screws that hold the wires and now it starts and runs good and fires on all four. The guy who restored this car supposedly spent over $40000.00 on the restoration but they used what must be a cheap made ignition switch. Could it be the culprit?

James
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Ever wonder why one would spend all that money then sell the car? Could it be that after spearheading all that money on reproduction crap I mean parts he could not get it run right and decided not to spend another dime on it?
 
ETOWAH!?! I worked down there for a while. Met alot of good people there before I transferred back home. Hate to hear your not enjoying your A as much as you could be reverendjim.
 
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