Distributor-35-36

F

Flathill

Member
I have a helment head distributor off of a 1935 Ford 21 stud engine with a top 3 screw coil.
The distributor shaft end tang that fits to the engine cam plate is bent.
Can I purchase a new shaft some where ?
Also is the 35 distributor shaft the same as the 37-41 helment head shaft or the 42-44 crab style distributor shaft ?
Is it possible to cut off the bent tang and weld a new one on as a last resort ?
 
I can probebly dig you up a good used one for like $15 plus $6 shipping if you want. No other one would be right. Would need # off the end of shaft. 40 / 40A /or 40B. ken ct. 1-203-260-5945. cell , going out for breakfast be back in an hour or so. That yr shafts are not availible new. 37 up are but not same.
 
Flathill-

You can do a lot with your distributor and still retain your original looks. With very work you can turn your distributor into a "quasi-performance" distributor along with the bonus of better gas mileage.

The parts items you will need are 78-12107 (point set L'36-'48). cam/weight assy- 11A-12176 ('41) and point mount plate - 68-12151 (L'36-'41). If you can find a derelict late '36 to '41 distributor you will have most of the needed parts to convert a pre-'36 distributor except the '41 weights and the new points which can be easily found on eBay or vendors such as Mac's.

What I am describing in not anything new. It was a common practice in the '40s and early '50s. This is what I have done to my '35 and '36 with no ill effects or starting problems..

Hope this helps.

Tom
 

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flatheadfan said:
Flathill-

You can do a lot with your distributor and still retain your original looks. With very work you can turn your distributor into a "quasi-performance" distributor along with the bonus of better gas mileage.

The parts items you will need are 78-12107 (point set L'36-'48). cam/weight assy- 11A-12176 ('41) and point mount plate - 68-12151 (L'36-'41). If you can find a derelict late '36 to '41 distributor you will have most of the needed parts to convert a pre-'36 distributor except the '41 weights and the new points which can be easily found on eBay or vendors such as Mac's.

What I am describing in not anything new. It was a common practice in the '40s and early '50s. This is what I have done to my '35 and '36 with no ill effects or starting problems..

Hope this helps.

Tom
Click to expand...


We can get all this done and back to ya for approx $ 150... 11A new shaft and individual contacts etc. Makes a very nice unit with proper advance , machine set up on the contacts creates a pretty much perfect unit ready for lots of driving.....:eek:
 
What makes this a better distributor, the points, the weights, the cam? Just curious.

Bill
 
36Bill said:
What makes this a better distributor, the points, the weights, the cam? Just curious.

Bill
Click to expand...


Bill,

Good question, after building and running a ton of these on a tester, it would be debatable as to the advantage of the 11a parts.

I guess I would have to agree that the smaller cam on the 11A is less prone to point bounce and the 11A advance offers a couple of extra degrees advance.
I get quite a few customers that have us change out the shaft etc to convert to the later design, the cap terminals and rotor is different as well.

Given a choice I would run the 11A...
 
Is there any disadvantage in using the early model 1933 -36 distributor rotor and caps with the 11a shaft, or is it the best to use the later model 1937- 41 components.
 
Ian NZ said:
Is there any disadvantage in using the early model 1933 -36 distributor rotor and caps with the 11a shaft, or is it the best to use the later model 1937- 41 components.
Click to expand...

That's my question as well. I was planning to build a '35 distributor like Flatheadfan is suggesting in his post using the stock '35 rotor and inner terminal plates. Is there definitely a problem with this combination? A friend did have a problem with his '36 distributor firing correctly that was built with 11A shaft, L'36-'41 point plate & points, and '33-E'36 terminal plates and rotor.
 
You CANNOT use the late rotor and points with the early inner contact plates, the spacing is diff on the contacts. . ken ct.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
That's my question as well. I was planning to build a '35 distributor like Flatheadfan is suggesting in his post using the stock '35 rotor and inner terminal plates. Is there definitely a problem with this combination? A friend did have a problem with his '36 distributor firing correctly that was built with 11A shaft, L'36-'41 point plate & points, and '33-E'36 terminal plates and rotor.
Click to expand...

I dont see any problem as long as the rotor matches the terminal caps used.
It appears that the rotor and terminal plates fit either unit with correct spacing.
 
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