Distribuator Condenser

I

INEX1@EROLS.COM

Junior Member
My 31 Slant Sedan my daily driver put about 7000 miles a year on her being "Retired" do not drive much anymore. But I do depend on the car and keep her in top driving condition.

Two months ago my coil failed and replaced with the Petronix "Epoxy Filled" coil and the car seemed to "Come Alive" again! then about a week later I was experiencing a fuel starving situation so I removed the Carburetor cleaned "Not Real Dirty" and re-installed, she ran very well till the engine reached operating temperature then same problem really lack of power.

Next, I pulled the distributor to check the points which were fine, and replaced the condenser "Have Original Type Distributor" reinstalled and timed, now after this the car ran the BEST she ever has!

Now fast forward two weeks and she started to lose her "Pep" checked fuel all okay but she felt like electrical issue, so I pulled the distributor and replaced the condenser once again, this was the problem! If anyone is experiencing poor performance and you are running the original type of distribution suggest you replace the coil
 
Hello, you are right, condensers are a known problem spot . If I experience problems, the first thing I look at, that’s why they make the condenser relocation plates . When I had my first Model A in 1970 , an “Old Timer” said always keep a couple for spares.
 
Back again about coils, had the experience with them running fine when cold , the breaking down after they warm up , Ford V 8 s seems to be notorious for that , found that generator was over charging and apparently cooking them set charge rate around 6 amps worked well .
 
When was the last time you did a complete 'tight & bright' secession to ALL your electrical connections, from the ground cable to the dash & out to your distributor ?
 
Is there a way to test with a volt meter to see if your condenser is good or bad?

Also testing the coil. Thanks
 
Actually do that every six months, postive ground it is very important to make sure all are grounded, like I mentined I drive this car daily and you know they do vibrate and can have a tendance lo loose up connector, also have a grounding strap frm block to chassis
 
Tom F OHIO said:
Is there a way to test with a volt meter to see if your condenser is good or bad?

Also testing the coil. Thanks
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Not with a typical MM (multi meter) or DMM {digital multi meter)

Sometimes condensors or coils test good w/test equipment, but are not good. Problem is that when said components heat up under operating conditions that is when they fail.
 
Tom F OHIO said:
Is there a way to test with a volt meter to see if your condenser is good or bad?
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Yes. You can test for leakage using a standard voltmeter set to "ohms", or any ohm meter. First, short the end of the condenser (where the screw is) to the distributor body. Next, put one ohm meter test lead (polarity doesn't matter) on the condenser body and the other on the end where the screw goes.

On a good condenser: The ohm meter will initially show low resistance then build resistance over a couple seconds until it reaches infinity. Then it should stay there as long as the leads are connected.

On a leaky condenser: The ohm meter will show low resistance and never build up to infinity.

On an open condenser: The ohm meter will show infinity (no resistance) the second you connect the leads to it.

On a shorted condenser: The ohm meter will show zero or nearly zero ohms and stay there.

Use a heat gun to warm the condenser while under test and observe if it changes.
 
I had a Petronix epoxy filled coil that failed because the epoxy insulator broke-down from heat. I replaced it with an oil filled coil as was the original one. As for the condenser, these slides may be useful to you.
 

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Since I installed (1986) one of the A&L condensers I had one failure—- I melted the solder holding the ******** — the strap got bent to make contact and the failure got reported to A&L and was given the improved spot welded version that is still working.
Bench testing results with meters does not always translate to a function test in service.
 
When I bought The Wretched Roadster the condenser was mounted to the firewall next to the coil. The seller told me it was an old tweak to keep it cooler than rising in the distributor attached to the engine.
 
David in San Antonio said:
When I bought The Wretched Roadster the condenser was mounted to the firewall next to the coil. The seller told me it was an old tweak to keep it cooler than rising in the distributor attached to the engine.
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When I was in school, I drove a really worn out Model A because that was all I could afford. I had the condenser mounted next to the coil and never had a failure.

Chris W.
 
A couple of people worked on The Wretched Roadster when I first got it. The first didn’t approve of mounting the condenser on the firewall, though it worked fine. He moved the condenser to the original Ford position in the base of the distributor. It worked fine there, too. The second guy installed modern points so it now rides on the top plate. And guess what? It works fine there, as far as I can tell. I am tempted to move it back to the firewall because it’s more convenient if it does need replacing. Also I like being right, at least as much as those other two guys.
 
Years ago, I had a bad time with coils failing. After the 4th one, a friend who knows more about Model As than anyone else I know told me to turn the coils over - terminals to the top. Modern coils are different from the ones Henry used and don't like being up side down. I did that and haven't had one fail since. It also makes it easier to mount a condensor near it on the firewall, which I do also.
PS To do this, you will need a longer HT lead to the distributor. Saving on a little wire is probably why Henry mounted them terminals down.
 
Synchro did you just cut the end of the wire to the condensor and add wire to it.. What side of the coil to you hook it too.
 
I also mounted a condenser on the side of the coil 54 years ago and have never changed it with no problems. The reason I moved it to the side of the coil is the manifold heater would heat up the condenser and kill it. After walking several times I decided to make the change on location in spite of people telling me they don't work well there. Never could tell it made any difference in the performance of the car.
 
Tom F OHIO said:
Synchro did you just cut the end of the wire to the condensor and add wire to it.. What side of the coil to you hook it too.
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I mounted it close enough to the coil that the original wire was long enough but I see no problem extending it if you need to. I connect it to the points side of the coil.
 
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