Dirty Gas Tank

mstover

mstover

Member
I just purchased my 1930 Coupe which wasn't running at the time. It appears that the primary culprit is a dirty gas tank. I'm getting a rusty sludge in the sediment bulb and it's clogging the valve under the tank. I'm afraid that I need to take the tank out, have it cleaned, and then sealed. Any words of wisdom?

Thanks - Mike
 
Check the archives for a water trap or a drip leg that installs on the gas shut off valve under the tank. Also a screen goes into the tank above the gas shut off valve to keep the debris from clogging the fuel system. Hope you get this resolved and welcome to this amazing site.
Russell
 
I did look at the "dirty leg" picture shown on this site and constructed one. It has helped but honestly most of the rust has avoided the dirty leg and found it's way to the sediment bulb. I installed an inexpensive fuel filter below the sediment bulb, just to catch anything making it past. Seems to be quite a bit of junk in the tank.
 
unless you want to struggle with this rust issue for a long time, the only real fix is to remove the tank, get it boiled out and sealed at a radiator shop. You will be much happier having it fixed properly in this way. Done once, Done right.
 
You can purchase a sort of STAND PIPE from the vendors that stands an inch above the bottom, hopefully ignoring the rust.
Much rust is non-magnetic HEMOTITE, so check that prior to going with a large magnet solution.
 
I suggest that you do a search for this subject in the forum. There has been a lot of discussion that you may find valuable. Gar Williams
 
I used a different method many years ago, I had used a standpipe inside, but still was getting rust, I took out the standpipe, while the petcock was off I hooked up a hose and kept pouring and shaking the car, this got out what was laying around the standpipe, then I set out on a 2000 mile trip, after 1000 miles of cleaning the sediment bowl every night very little more got caught, for the next 10 years I only looked in the bowl a few times and there was just a little, it took another 10 years to fill the screen again ----it looks like I am due for a long trip again.
 
I do the same as Kurt for a dirty tank. I used laquer thinner and while it was draining I rocked the car side to side. Filter the thinner and repeat about 5 times. I then installed the brass filter in the shutoff valve. No suroff valve nor carb float valve problems since doing this for the customer.
 
I have tried something different, I attached a electric fuel pump down stream of the filter and then from the pump a hose returning gas back to the tank. This way I can filter it day and night tell clean.
 
My gas tank on my doodlebug was a mess it wouldnt go around the block, I had listened to many comments on the board and finally took out the shut off valve took a garden hose and washed thoroughly set it in the sun to bake out the moisture, of course it was 90 Degrees out. Put in a stand pipe with SS filter, cleaned out all lines filter, and carburator and kept watch on sediment bowl, maybe emptied it twice only enough rust to cover bottom of bowl, both times and now no more rust been fine for 6 months. John
 
My car was running hot and lean so I took the tank out of my car and followed the directions that came with a kit from Eastwood Co. I cleaned, etched, the tank following directions, and then coated the tank with alcohol proof sealer.

I used an electric leaf blower to dry the tank between the cleaner/etching solutions, and the sealer solution. The tank must be absolutely dry before using the sealer. I added a second coat the next day and also dipped the gas gauge float in the sealer.

I allowed the sealer to cure for two months before I put gas in the tank.That was fifteen years ago. Never had a problem since. No rust, debris etc.
 
Richard in Anaheim CA said:
This is the first time I have heard of a "dirty leg". Can someone explain or show picture?

Richarfd
Anaheim CA
Click to expand...

I found this from a previous post, not mine

65510
 
My fordor would clog up when I first got it.

When you parked over night the crud settled out at the valve. The car would stall out in a block or two.

So I drained the tank and then put a ball valve on with a hose. Put some gas back in the tank and shook. Then rapidly drained through a rag filter.

Then did as my brother, Kurt in NJ, except I put on a glass fuel bowl. Lots of crap at first and it did not take long to settle to a much reduced amount of crap coming out.

I only used the original filter screens and I monitored my carb which was always clean. In fact the filter on the carb was always clean too. So the dirt never made it past the first screen.
 
Richard in Anaheim CA said:
This is the first time I have heard of a "dirty leg". Can someone explain or show picture?

Richarfd
Anaheim CA
Click to expand...

I have searched for this and cannot find it. Greg's post only shows a red X. I used to have this post in "Favorites" but it can no longer be found. Can someone find it, or can the person who originally posted it repost it?

Thanks,

Paul
 
Tom Wesenberg,

Where did you buy the fuel tank filter that you installed in the late '31 indented firewall
Model A ? Other in the forum say that the filters offered in the catalogs will not work in
late 1931 fuel shut-off valves.

Bigphil
Anaheim, CA
714-747-0163
 
I used the same filter that fits the earlier valves.
Once in a while the filter might need a tinning with solder for a tighter fit.
 
Sound like the stuff in the tank is fine stuff, so fine that it is stired up when the car is in motion, If the "crud" is so fine that the dirty leg is not capturing it, I would follow the advice of Kurt in NJ, put fuel in shake like crazy and filter, repeat several times.

Easier then the removal "boiling out" sealing, repainting the tank and reinstalling it. Call me lazy but I would do the simple things first.
 
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