Dirty Gas Tank

3

32FordCollector

Junior Member
I'm brand new to the forum and just inherited a 32 Ford V8 Roadster that hasn't been run in over 20 years. I'm slowing working my way through checking everything out and have noticed that the gas tank has some varnish deposits in it but I don't see any significant traces of rust. I was thinking of putting some gas into the tank, letting it soften up the varnish and then pumping it out of the tank to attempt to clean it. Then I was thinking of adding a 30 micron gas filter in line before the fuel pump to catch any remaining residue prior to reaching the pump. I'm trying to avoid pulling the tank, having it professionally cleaned, and then needing to repaint the tank until I have the opportunity to see what else I need to do to get the vehicle fully operational. Does anyone have any advice on these plans? Am I kidding myself and should simply bite the bullet and pull the tank and have it cleaned?
 
Welcome to the Barn. I don't think your suggested method will work very well, the filters plug up fast. You should be able to chemically clean it, someone should be able to recommend a proper chemical. Another issue, if you use the current ethanol gas you will have problems with it eating up parts in the fuel pump, lines and carburetor. Need to get non-ethanol gas or replace the parts that will not tolerate it.

Sounds like a cool project, post some photos!
 
I agree, but with some caution: The tern coating on the original tank may be affected if too harsh a chemical is used in the cleaning. All gasoline will leave a varnish, no need to remove more than what may dissolve easily.
 
Some internet info:
For cleaning the tank, different acids can be used. One of the most commonly used acid is the muriatic acid, also known as hydrochloric acid. Other than hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid is also often used for tank cleaning purposes. However, when either of the acid is used, one has to take an immense amount of care while undertaking the cleaning procedure. The other ingredients, which can be used for tank cleaning include vinegar, acetone, detergent, hot water, etc. It is recommended that the cleaning procedure be undertaken in open air as the fumes may be hazardous.

Acetone: You will need about 2 to 3 quarts of acetone for the process. Close all the holes of the tank using drywall screws. Pour about 1 quart of acetone into the tank and shake the tank aggressively. Stop for a small bit and check if the rust is indeed coming out and resume the shaking process. Empty the acetone out into a sludge bucket and repeat the process.

Vinegar: Vinegar contains acetic acid, which helps in dissolving the rust from inside the tank. Pour vinegar into the empty tank till its brim. Close the tank and keep it overnight. The next morning, pour out some quantity of vinegar from the tank and shake the tank vigorously. Then empty the contents from the tank. Then pour a little baking soda into the tank and keep it aside for half an hour. Use water to rinse the tank.

Detergent: The other method to clean the fuel tank is to use laundry detergent combined with hot water. Leave the mixture in the tank for an hour or two. Then pour the mixture out and wash the tank with hot water again. If you are of the opinion that the tank is not clean as per your expectations, then you can repeat the process.

Acid: Muriatic acid or phosphoric acid can be used for the same. Like any other acid, care should be taken while handling muriatic or phosphoric acid. When using muriatic acid, remember to use thick rubber hand-gloves and glasses to protect your eyes from the acid fumes. Pour hot water in the tank till it is half full. Add approximately half a gallon of acid to the water. Then add in the remaining hot water in the tank. Close the gas tank with a cap, but make sure you do not use the tank cap. Do not disturb the tank for about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Let the entire mixture settle in the tank. Dispose the mixture from the tank carefully.
 
I use the muriatic acid method then wash with baking soda and water to kill the acid. I have used the coating that MAC's sell with good success. Pull you tank and puss the gas gauge unit, it will need detail cleaning. If you run your car with that varnish, it is likely that you will have serious problems with the valves. That varnish will get in the intake valve guides and seize the valves.
 
Depends on how valuable your time is....I went with a new steel tank and sold the original one to someone wanting to spend hours working on it to save some dollars. Then wonder when the old rusty tank will become an issue again.
 
There is zero value in doing half a job cleaning the tank and fuel lines in addition to replacing any soft hoses not rated for ethanol. Either do a replace now, or don't leave the driveway without a tow vehicle at the ready.
 
Guys - Thanks for all the suggestions and help, I truly appreciate it. Other than soft hose replacements and the possibility of having to replace gaskets in either the carburetor or fuel pump what other parts will I need to anticipate replacing if I elect to run gas with ethanol? I'm not certain I have the option of running non-ethanol fuel, I'm in San Diego and have no idea where I could find non-ethanol fuel.

Thanks again for all of the help. Here's a picture of the Roadster (I hope, still trying to figure out the forum and how to attach things):
 

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I believe CA is a state that limits - or prevents - the sale of any non-ethonal gasoline. Address all the parts of the fuel line and you'll be good. I am uncertain if your valves are compatiable with ethonal fuels.

Great looking 32.
 
Well, considering you want to clean the tank while still installed, first ask friends for a trustworthy tow company with a rollback truck that won't steal your car. Then fill your tank 2/3 full with E-85 fuel (that's 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline.) Next, have the tow company drive randomly across the roughest roads possible for a few hours to churn the tank. You may want to accompany them on the route you've chosen yourself so they don't end up at a Denny's or worse...

E-85 is cheap and does a good job melting old varnish.

Lonnie
 
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Holy mackerel, that is one nice looking roadster!!! Love Lonnie's idea. If you are going to be running ethanol fuel you will need to change any rubber hoses in the fuel system, change the diaphragm in the fuel pump and rebuild the carb. I would send the carb and fuel pump to the Barn members that specialize in the rebuilds.
 
Beautiful car! A neighbor had a $15 ebay endoscope that he plugged into his laptop and we were able to feed it into the filler neck and inspect the inside of the tank on my 39 pu. Mine had about 1/2" of thick, tarry, varnish and I could not find anyone that thought they could get it all out with the internal baffles, cost notwithstanding. In my case I replaced it because between the difficulty of getting it clean and the cost and disposal of the chemicals needed to remove the varnish, $200 for a replacement tank was cheaper and easier. Maybe it's worth looking before you commit to a plan?
 
32FordCollector said:
Guys - Thanks for all the suggestions and help, I truly appreciate it. Other than soft hose replacements and the possibility of having to replace gaskets in either the carburetor or fuel pump what other parts will I need to anticipate replacing if I elect to run gas with ethanol? I'm not certain I have the option of running non-ethanol fuel, I'm in San Diego and have no idea where I could find non-ethanol fuel.

Thanks again for all of the help. Here's a picture of the Roadster (I hope, still trying to figure out the forum and how to attach things):
Click to expand...
Go to a small airport and buy AV gas.
 
Welcome to the barn. To kinda summarize what has been said:
Clean the tank. period. No need to buy a new tank as they are problems themselves as to fit, not accepting original gage etc. If the existing tank is only varnish filled and not rusty inside (the orininal terne coat is very durable.) Clean it or have it cleaned. I am running my 32 with original tank and no new modern coating.
Remove original gage sender and clean it and understand how the hydrostatic gage works from the service bulletins. This requires removing the tank. The access plate is for servicing the fuel and air line fittings only.
Replace the only one rubber fuel hose that goes to the pump with one made by Bob Schumann (sp?)
Replace the fuel pump diaphragm with one from Ken Isidor here on the barn. Also get a carb kit from him.
Flush the fuel line from the tank and check the air line to the gage to see if it is clear.
That is all the items in the system that are affected by the alcohol in the new fuel. You will be ready to go.
Just my opinion
 
First, AV is not something you want to run in a car engine, secondly the price is sky high and thirdly, it's illegal in most places I know of.
 
Here in Wichita it's as close as the local pump (not everywhere, but at a lot of locations).
 
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Guys - Thanks for all the additional comments. For feedback I ended up pulling the tank, carburetor and fuel pump, and ensuring that the fuel lines were clear. I cleaned the tank (really wasn't that bad) and sealed it, tested the fuel sender unit, cleaned and tested the fuel gauge, rebuilt the fuel pump and carb., and have swapped out the old hoses and added two 30 micron filters. I've replaced the battery and ground cable and verified that the starter bumps over. I'm going through the cooling system and dropping the oil pan for inspection and cleaning. I plan on adding two gano filters to the cooling system to catch anything that was still sitting around and should be ready to fire off this baby in a couple of weeks. I'll update you on how the rest went once I'm done and thanks again for all the help.
 
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