Directional Light Switch

Bob Grieb

Bob Grieb

Senior Member
I have a Signal - Stat 0900 Sigflare signal switch in my Model A and it will activate the directional lights but not the light on the switch itself. It has worked fine for a long while but recently stopped. I replace the bulb in ther switch itself but remains inoperable. I rechecked the light bulb and find the old one and the new one to be good.

I checked the ground and find it acceptable.

Any ideas on what could be the problem.

Thanks for the help.

Bob
 
I had the same problem with my stat 0900 after farting around I found it was the ground. Where are you grounding the switch? If it’s a good grounding spot just make sure it’s clean down the the metal. If you think it’s clean clean it again!!
 
I wil recheck the ground tomorrow. I put an alligator clip on the unit and attached the other end to the frame. I will play with ground again tomorrow.

Thanks for the response.

Bob
 
Other thing, are you using a 3 terminal flasher unit. Two terminal types are not made for this application.
 
When I rebuilt my steering column I had the same problem. I took the clamp loose and scratched a small spot of paint off and held a short piece of .025" solder between the column and clamp and tightened it all up. Indicator light now works again.
 
I installed a ground wire from the switch to a known good ground and ran the wire in the harness. The switch itself is insulated from the steering column to prevent damaging the paint if anyone wants to return to original.
 
I ran a ground wire from the screw for the clamp to the steering column bracket. Just loosen the steering column bracket enough to slide the ground wire between the clamps. I mounted the unit close to the dash on the column. It is a short distance for the ground wire. Works great.
 
There are three terminals on the flasher: X (battery) L (load) and P (pilot lamp). With the signal unit on and signal lamps flashing put a volt meter between ground and the P terminal. It should pulse between zero and battery voltage. If it does not the flasher unit has failed and needs replacement. If it does the problem is with the pilot lamp and its grounding.
 
I replaced the flasher and the light on the column is still not flashing . I removed the switching unit and reinstalled it making sure it is grounded and it is.
Tomorrow I will open the switch up and check for evidence of corrosion in the bulb socket.
This has got me baffled for what I thought would be a simple problem.
I checked the terminal board connections on the firewall with a light and it will light a circuit tester light. I am thinking about hooking a buzzer to that so I can hear it when the flasher is on.

The directional lights on the vehicle work it is just that I have no way to confirm they are off.

Thanks for all the input

Bob
 
I revisited my ongoing issue of the light on the switch not working and have come to the conclusion that the problem is within the switch itself. The wiring in the harness does contain a pulsing signal but it does not present at the bulb. Not wanting to disassemble the,switch itself i am going to install a buzzer under the dash that will signal when directional lights are on.
Thanks for all of your inputs.

Bob
 
Are you sure that the bulb is a 6V bulb, and not a 12V bulb?
Even if it is a 6V bulb, it may not be reacting fast enough to the "pulse", then you would need to find a different # bulb that will work.
 
I have a 12 volt system and a 12 volt bulb. When I check the bulb socket I have no voltage.

Thanks for your response.

Bob
 
I finally resolved the problem with my flasher unit.
What started out to be what appeared to be burned out light bulb turned out to be as bad connection.
When the flasher unit was originally installed a terminal strip was used. As a last effort to resolve my issue before resulting to the use of a buzzer I downloaded a schematic of the switch installation. I then checked every termination and found a loose termination that was not apparent thru visual examination. The wire to the flasher unit "X" terminal was loose/open. The unit had worked since I purchased the car and it was never a problem until now.

Thanks for all the input.

Bob
 
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