differential stripped thread

Can you fix it with a helicoil or nutsert?
Not sure how tight they have to be but could you wrap the thread with teflon tape, apply some permatex hardening sealer and thread the bolt in?
Could you retap the threads to the next size bolt - even if it's metric?
 
I take it you are talking about a banjo rear end.If you are ,I ran into the same problem.
I think you will find that your threads are deeper than your bolt.I did and what i did was,I went a bought a bolt 1/4 inch longer,than the original and it worked out great.
You have to be careful on two points,check the depth of that hole and don't tighten the new bolt to tight.Unfortunately I don't know what the torque spec. are, if there are any.


,
 
Those threads in the banjo housing and the bolts used to hold the axle bells to the banjo are special in design to help prevent oil leakage. Using a standard bolt, especially in the lower section where the oil pools up, could setup a leaking situation. Maybe a good sealant would prevent that.
 
Last edited:
JM 35 Sedan said:
Those threads in the banjo housing and the bolts used to hold the axle bells to the banjo are special in design to help prevent oil leakage. Using a standard bolt, especially in the lower section where the oil pools up, could setup a leaking situation. Maybe a good sealant would prevent that.
Click to expand...
This is very true. I would like to add that these bolts (and threaded holes) are tapered, somewhat like a pipe thread.
If someone has tapped the holes with a regular straight tap, you will lose the designed interference. Same thing applies to the bolt(s)... if a regular bolt is used, the designed interference here too will be compromised.
 
I agree with John on the unique design of banjo bolts. The area between the threaded portion of the bolt and the bottom of the head has a subtle taper. The pictures show where the taper is but unfortunately, the taper is not readily noticeable in the pictures. Common hardware bolts do not have this taper. If you add a lock washer under the head thinking you will keep everything tightened you will be inadvertently negating the taper seal and creating a major leaker.

Tom
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1027.JPG
    IMG_1027.JPG
    76 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_1028.JPG
    IMG_1028.JPG
    68.9 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1029.JPG
    IMG_1029.JPG
    57.1 KB · Views: 17
flatheadfan said:
I agree with John on the unique design of banjo bolts. The area between the threaded portion of the bolt and the bottom of the head has a subtle taper. The pictures show where the taper is but unfortunately, the taper is not readily noticeable in the pictures. Common hardware bolts do not have this taper. If you add a lock washer under the head thinking you will keep everything tightened you will be inadvertently negating the taper seal and creating a major leaker.

Tom
Click to expand...
The interference between the threads provide the seal. NOT the "taper" you speak of near the head of the bolt. That is simply clearance so the bolt may go through the axle housing.
The threaded holes in the center section are tapered. Similar in theory to a pipe thread.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top