differential issues?

D

Dewshan

Member
My 1931 Victoria project continues...I had hoped to be on the road by now. I did end up purchasing a rebuilt engine and installed it. It came with new clutch and I sourced a nos ujoint that is very nice and not made off-centered. even before the new engine was in place I developed an issue where you let the clutch out and the car does not move. This issue still continues even with the new clutch. I have verified that the ujoint is spinning at the back of the transmission when in gear. When I spin the back wheels by hand the right one does move the drive shaft the left (drivers side) does not. I put it in gear and the drivers wheel was spinning but I was able to stop it by grabbing it with my hand. The passenger side was also spinning. When this issue started there was a bang when I was letting out the clutch- I thought it was a clutch spring but think the clutch is fine. Any ideas? I do have a small camera I could try to get into the diff drain plug to look around some.
 
Hi there. A friend of mine and I are working on his differential. He has a broken spider gear.
That could possibly be the culprit! Tom
 
I once had a similar failure in the Model A drive line. After checking the axle keys and the pinion gear key, I found that the car had been restored with reproduction axles and the reproduction axle had been made by welding the axle gear to the axle and was poorly welded at that. See Vince Falter's site at:

https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/reprorearaxle.htm

for pictures.

Good luck,

John
 
I almost said broken axle shaft but then you said you pulled the hubs and the keys were good… if broken the stub would have hopefully been obvious when you pulled the hubs. if that’s so…. I you are sure the u-joint is rotating and this at least one axle I would pull the carrier assembly from the drivet side under repair premise. If the rear axle needs entire rebuilding pull the rear end to do that.

Rear axles are pretty straightforward. To pull left side housing while the axle is in the car you can do that by supporting Frame in front of the radius rods and lowering the car and axle down and using a spring spreader remove the drivers side spring shackle, then subsequently housing. And carrier. You must remove keys from both axles to pull from housings. You can remove the front radius bolt to remove the individual rod on drivers side only and backing plate but I have done it with backing plate attached. It’s a contortion but doable .
Once housing all is removed pull carrier and axle assembly out drivers side and figure out what the issue is. All fixable, old repro axles we’re 2 piece and could be the issue as stated above. It would be unusual to break a spyder or spyder gear and then you would have to remove all the pieces anyway. Tear it apart and see what’s up. Keep us posted. Photos if possible.
1-2 hours and it’s apart.
Larry
 
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That sounds like a plan! Ill try that next. I dont know the history of this diff. Its been in the family since 1960s!
 
Hello,also keep track of the size of gaskets on axle housing to center, they are used to set the backlash in ring and pinion gears.
 
Hello again, I should have said thicknesses of gaskets, you may need micrometers to measure they come in various thickness to set the backlash in the gears in gasket pack.
 
Drewshan Shackle


483754
 

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This car was a basket case. Has been in the family since the 1960s and has just been a hodge podge of parts. Will be on the road soon if i can fix this!
 
Dewshan said:
This car was a basket case. Has been in the family since the 1960s and has just been a hodge podge of parts. Will be on the road soon if i can fix this!
Click to expand...

That's the sort of thing I expect to see on a car the kids have driven in around the paddocks, maybe shooting rabbits. They have disaster written all over them.
 
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