In rebuilding the rear end there is a bearing race in the axle housings on the inboard side next to the pumpkin. The instructions that I have seen says to use a 3 foot 1/2 inch pipe and tap them out. I cannot keep the pipe on the ridge of the races to tap them out, is there a secret that I have missed? Also the brake drum end of the axle housing has what appears to be a sleeve on the inside of the housing where the brake drum bearing rides on top of a protrusion. Should this come out and can it come out? Why is it there? The axle doesn't carry and weight. Jack
Differental rebuild
- Thread starter jhowes
- Start date
Joe K
Well-known member
A trick would be to place the pipe on the edge you allude to - and then "lift" both housing and pipe together - and "descend" them together smartly on the floor hitting the whole circle of the trumpet.
Inertia will carry the pipe beyond the travel of the housing.
Instead I usually do this with a pipe and a hammer and the trumpet end on the floor. If the upper end of the pipe is a foot or two beyond the top/small end of the housing, you can bear a bit "sideways" in one direction which forces the lower pipe end to remain on the "ledge." THEN hit. You then push sideways "alternately" catching first one side of the bearing race and then the other.
Of course, if you have a plug turned slightly larger than the bearing race, some all-thread, and a "bridge" (placed across the big end of the trumpet) you can "pull it" more formally. Make the plug with two flatted sides for insertion into the housing.
Do I read you right? You say there is a sleeve on the "inside" of the axle housing at the wheel bearing end? Maybe not the inside. Certain early housings are "sleeved" on the OUTSIDE of the bearing surface with a hardened sleeve. This to provide a hard wearing surface for the wheel bearing rollers to roll on.
Later housings and most Model A production were made without the sleeve - although the usual problem is the bearing surfaces wear "egg shaped" from the weight of the car and the wear of the rollers. So many will turn down this bearing surface and "sleeve it" similar to the earlier Model A production as a way to get a worn housing back. Your housing may be later but may have had this done?
You will want to check this bearing diameter since you have it apart and are at a point where you can do the repair. Diameter is 2.062 plus or minus 0.001.
I recently picked up a used housing with a good spring perch and the wear is about 15 thousandths egg shaped. But - it can be rebuilt!
Joe K
Inertia will carry the pipe beyond the travel of the housing.
Instead I usually do this with a pipe and a hammer and the trumpet end on the floor. If the upper end of the pipe is a foot or two beyond the top/small end of the housing, you can bear a bit "sideways" in one direction which forces the lower pipe end to remain on the "ledge." THEN hit. You then push sideways "alternately" catching first one side of the bearing race and then the other.
Of course, if you have a plug turned slightly larger than the bearing race, some all-thread, and a "bridge" (placed across the big end of the trumpet) you can "pull it" more formally. Make the plug with two flatted sides for insertion into the housing.
Do I read you right? You say there is a sleeve on the "inside" of the axle housing at the wheel bearing end? Maybe not the inside. Certain early housings are "sleeved" on the OUTSIDE of the bearing surface with a hardened sleeve. This to provide a hard wearing surface for the wheel bearing rollers to roll on.
Later housings and most Model A production were made without the sleeve - although the usual problem is the bearing surfaces wear "egg shaped" from the weight of the car and the wear of the rollers. So many will turn down this bearing surface and "sleeve it" similar to the earlier Model A production as a way to get a worn housing back. Your housing may be later but may have had this done?
You will want to check this bearing diameter since you have it apart and are at a point where you can do the repair. Diameter is 2.062 plus or minus 0.001.
I recently picked up a used housing with a good spring perch and the wear is about 15 thousandths egg shaped. But - it can be rebuilt!
Joe K
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I used a piece of rod, instead of a pipe. and then bent the rod slightly a few inches from the end that'll contact the bearing. This seemed to give it a slightly better chance at engaging the edge of the race. May also want to bevel the end of the rod so that a pretty distinct edge of the rod can hit the race. There's not much space to connect with.
good luck
good luck
Tom Endy
Well-known member
Make sure the pipe you are using does not have a burr or a mushroom on the end. You should be able to catch the edge of the race with the pipe. If not clean out any dirt or other contamination that has formed around the back side of the race.
The thing you think is a bushing is probably the grease seal, or what is left of it. They should always be replaced during an overhaul, but quite often are not. To remove it place the axle housing on some newspaper banjo flange down. Take a screwdriver and insert it into the end where the axle protrudes. Hold the screwdriver at an angle and catch the edge of the seal and drive it out with a hammer. You will hear it hit the newspaper.
To install a new one you will need an insertion tool that will screw onto the end of a pipe similar to what you are using to drive the race out. All the supplies carry them. Make sure you thoroughly clean the area where the new seal will reside.
Hopefully you are doing this project with some kind of documented instructions.
Tom Endy
The thing you think is a bushing is probably the grease seal, or what is left of it. They should always be replaced during an overhaul, but quite often are not. To remove it place the axle housing on some newspaper banjo flange down. Take a screwdriver and insert it into the end where the axle protrudes. Hold the screwdriver at an angle and catch the edge of the seal and drive it out with a hammer. You will hear it hit the newspaper.
To install a new one you will need an insertion tool that will screw onto the end of a pipe similar to what you are using to drive the race out. All the supplies carry them. Make sure you thoroughly clean the area where the new seal will reside.
Hopefully you are doing this project with some kind of documented instructions.
Tom Endy
Jim Brierley
Well-known member
If the carier bearing race will not be re-used, it can be removed by arc welding a bead around its inner surface. It will shrink the race and it will fall out via gravity.
Joe K
Well-known member
Yes - what is available today is MUCH better than Rick Freeman's "Model A Repair" from the 1970s that I worked from.
Give him "the link" Tom... No he won't think less of you.
Heck with you. I'll do it...
http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...rential-Rear-End-Restoration-Revised-2014.pdf
And don't forget the bolts holding the trumpets to the pumpkin are "special" bolts - a small tad oversize (class fit) to prevent oil from leaking along the threads - most use a permatex product as additional insurance against a leak. I would use the original bolts rather than buy new as you can't count on the same fit precision in modern manufacture.
Joe K
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Railcarmover
BANNED
common practice with heavy equipment..and install the new races after a quick dip in liquid nitrogen..w would do scraper hitches with multiple bushings and bearings,knock em out using both techniques
35fordtn
Well-known member
If you felt like spending $135 you could buy the KRW tool (not my listing)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KR-Wilson-...441961?hash=item3b2e373ae9:g:UbQAAOSw9oFcmoHL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KR-Wilson-...441961?hash=item3b2e373ae9:g:UbQAAOSw9oFcmoHL