Dies at half tank

When your fuel line comes from the firewall, is it bent upward to about mid tank level? Or, does your shut off valve have a riser to about half tank high? Ron W
 
I would start at the end of the line and work my way up.
Unhook the fuel line at the carburetor and make sure the end of the fuel line isn’t too far from the ferrule and blocking the fuel flow.
Then I would open the shutoff valve and empty the tank from that part of the line with the gas cap in place.
It is important to find out what it isn’t as well as what it could be.
Watch the fuel stream and the fuel gauge, if it drains completely with no problem then I would swap carburetors with a friend or use a spare for another test.
If it does it again, I would put a line into a gas can and bypass the fuel tank all together.
This will tell you if it is anything like a filter, flake of rust or maybe not related to gas at all.
If all problems stop and it is the fuel supply at least you will be able to rule out ignition or timing, which is just as likely for the same symptoms.
 
Update: I took my model A for the same drive one week later but with a full tank. All when well, as check when I got home I turned off the engine and slow opened the gasoline cap to listen for any air rushing in.... I heard none... we'll keep any eye or ear on that...
 
A follow up on my situation... A friend recommended I replace my coil. I then remembered that when I inherited the car, it came with a new coil in the box. And I had swapped the old one out with the new. Just for the sake of it being newer. So yesterday I swapped them back. Replacing the newer one with the older one that came installed when I got the car. I now have no problems driving past a half tank of gas! I actually drove it all the way down to empty.

How this fixes the problem, I have no idea. But it does.
 
Put the new coil back in to verify it's the problem. And you never did say whether it would start after 10/15 minutes without doing anything.
 
FWIW:

1. If an engine problem appears to be a mystery, agree with Chuck's suggestion to try putting the suspected problem coil back on just for peace of mind & to "verify" if this was the "only" exact problem.

2. Millions of vintage coils & condensers went in the garbage years ago mainly because of mechanics & car owners not being familiar with the "real" problem; i.e., with time, mileage, & humidity, the development of slightly loose and/or slightly corroded oxidized electrical connections failing to properly conduct electricity.

3. Example:

A. Poor performance observed ....... so one follows the old often recommended fix; i.e., change out coil and/or condenser.

B. Then car runs great after "cleaning" off a thin film of corrosion and/or "tightening" slightly loose electrical connections for same; hence, millions of the removed good vintage U. S. made coils & removed good vintage U. S. made condensers went in the garbage.

C. Few ever re-installed the same vintage U.S. manufactured "Ford" parts to verify that they could last over 50 years or more as opposed to the "Iffy-Foreign-Made" coils & condensers we see today that might not last six (6) months.

4. Also, appears after experiencing a mystery missing engine, many car owners fiddle & tinker with a dozen or more things before trying re-starting or re-highway testing; hence, one never learns which of the 12 tinkerings corrected the problem ...... then not long after, one hears the same owner complain that his engine is doing the same thing as before & he does not know where to start.

5. Trying & performing one engine correction task or test at a time always helps one's learning curve in diagnostics.

Hope this helps with mystery engines.
 
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