didn't use Permatex Thread Sealant when installing heads

RandyMettler said:
1931 Flamingo and Kube,


Thanks for the questions. Yes, I have nice thick washers under the nuts. And Kube, if you were in this situation you would not reinstall your heads if the gaskets and copper coats look good? Instead buy new ones? I am going to use the tread sealer under, over the washers and around the stud that stick out of the cylinder head. If I coat anything lower than that on the studs, I fear It will be near impossible to get the heads off in the future. I have never used the sealer and don't know if it sets up like silicone or is more like a thick water resistant grease. I'll see tomorrow when I buy some.
Thanks to your input, now I am not going to torque beyond 40. If I still have leaks, I will try the powder aluminum. My only reason for not going that route first is tube videos tend to swing toward that as a temp fix.



Regards, and thanks for all your input and time.
Click to expand...
Randy,
The aluminum sealant enters the cooling system (radiator). It stays in circulation until / unless it finds a leak. If and when it finds a leak, it fills that void.
If it finds no leaks, it stays in circulation.
Please, just do the three heat cycles / re-torque, add the sealer and drive this thing for a bit.
 
Randy, I would follow Kube's advice, he is someone with years of flathead experience. Internet searches are great, but you have no idea who is posting what and how valid the information is. There are a lot of folks here on the Barn with a lifetime of flathead experience, you can't find a better source on information!

I am interested in how the studs are "cemented" in if nothing was put on them during installation? If they are "cemented" in it would not be likely that they were leaking.

I have used stop-leak products in many engines over the years for different issues with good success.
 
I did not install the threaded studs in the block. The previous owner did. I have an 8BA block, which I think all had head bolts from the factory. I believe somewhere along the way, for whatever reason, someone decided to switch to the head studs.

Yes I do have thick washers under the nuts.
I agree with Flatford8 on not over torquing, especially due to the small cracks.
I am going to try to remove one of the studs today with vice grips. If they come out okay I will get new studs or maybe switch to head bolts. Then reseal with thread sealant where the bolts or studs thread into the block. If the studs are suborn, Ill leave them in an add the powder aluminum regardless.


Thanks again
 
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I would not use vice grips on a head stud unless it was a last resort. Double jam nuts is the best approach to remove studs. So have you tried the other suggestions prior to pulling a stud?
 
JSeery


That is exactly what I have decided to do. I purchased two tubes of the alumaseal powder and will fill the radiator with water and add a tube and a half of the stuff. I have one head off and pulling the studs will get all kinds of debris on the copper seal spray and ruin the gasket. The gasket still looks good so I am going to reinstall the head and give the alumaseal a fair chance with three warm/cool cycles.


From all your advice, I believe it will work just fine without the hassle of pulling the head studs and resealing their threads. After all, I did not start this job because of leaking heads. The original head gaskets sealed fine.


Regards
 
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I've found that liberally slathering wheeling bearing grease on all surfaces & threads helps prevent such leaks among other advantages. Jack E/NJ
 
You are not the first senior member to suggest wheel bearing grease to seal leaks at cylinder heads. That leads me to believe that method is tried and true. The only thing I cant wrap my mind around is the cooling system is under a lot of pressure and grease is very fluid.

Man I wish I could hang around with a bunch of you in a garage and listen to all your stories from back in the day.


Do or do not, there is no try!
 
RandyMettler said:
The only thing I cant wrap my mind around is the cooling system is under a lot of pressure and grease is very fluid.
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Your thinking modern, these systems are not pressurized, so very little pressure (unless it has been modified to a later radiator system). About the only pressure is that from the water pumps. The later flatheads did use a low pressure radiator cap, but still far less than a modern engine.
 
>>>grease is very fluid.>>>

Nope. Doesn't flow too good either. Stays packed in wheel bearings that are flinging around pretty fast, sometimes pretty hot too. Jack E/NJ
 
Well it is good that you mention this. I have a new Griffin Aluminum radiator with the pressure cap and the relief valve that is supposed to suck fluid back into the radiator when the block cools. Is that considered a modern coolant system? I installed an overflow tube canister because it was pucking fluid out of the overflow tub when the engine got overly hot. I could be wrong, but maybe this is why I am now having fluid seeping out of the head studs when I did not with the original radiator. It was definitely not pressurized.
 
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"Nope. Doesn't flow too good either. Stays packed in wheel bearings that are flinging around pretty fast, sometimes pretty hot too. Jack E/NJ"



Thanks for your help. Sorry about my original response. I missed your comment about slathering wheel bearing grease on all surfaces and threads. The tread idea sounds like good insurance.


Regards
 
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I use a GM product, it isn't cheap, but works, comes in a tube like toothpaste, but has teflon in it made for bolts that go through to the water jacket.
At the moment I can't remember the part number, would have to go out to the shop to get it and it's raining at the moment.
 
JSeery,


Regarding

"What pressure cap are you using?"

It is a Speedway Spectre 4338 Hexagon Chrome Radiator Cap. I believe it is 11 PSI, if I remember correctly. I have attached a couple of pictures of the cap and radiator setup. I believe it is pretty standard.
 

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RandyMettler said:
JSeery,


Regarding

"What pressure cap are you using?"

It is a Speedway Spectre 4338 Hexagon Chrome Radiator Cap. I believe it is 11 PSI, if I remember correctly. I have attached a couple of pictures of the cap and radiator setup. I believe it is pretty standard.
Click to expand...

Ok, this is a higher pressure cap. Not the norm for the flatheads, but should be fine.
 
topfuel724 said:
Kube, what brand of sealant would you suggest for the cooling system?
Click to expand...

I use Alumiseal, a powdered aluminum product when necessary. It stays in suspension unless / until it finds a leak. Thus, there are no concerns of clogging a system.
 
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