Diagnosis needed

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Car starts fine when cold; after running about half an hour, it won't restart. After sitting about an hour it will start right up and run fine. Doesn't seem to be vapor lock (had that before, know what it's like) or flooding---almost as if battery is dead. Only noise is a "clicking " sound, which I hope someone with mechanical ability (which I lack)recognizes. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
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Bad solinoid? Maybe?
 
I had the exact same problem with an "alternative engine". The negative ground battery cable was connected to the frame. The heat of running added just enough resistance for the click click syndrome. I moved the ground to the block and problem was solved. Check and clean all battery cable connections... positive and negative. The ground cable (+ or -) should run to the block for the least amount of resistance. Heat = resistance. Along the same lines...6v batteries require 6v cables...bigger than the 12v replacements.
 
Thanks for the replies: I know it's Easter and we should be with family but...this was the car's first day out this spring and this problem wasn't around last fall. I went out to check all the connections, and it looks like the ground is to the block BUT I noticed that the clamp to the positive terminal has a crack in it from top to bottom... in fact, it's almost all the way through and can't be tightened. Think this plus the heat might be the problem? (Bought the 2/0 gauge cable from J.C. Whitney in Nov. 2002...would've thought it had a longer life span.)
 
that is a big part of the problem, while your changing the ground also run a ground from the engine to body and one from engine to frame, add one from body to frame that way you have all bases covered and will elimanate a lot of electrical problems especially lite problems
 
It could be. Cracks like to open up as they heat up. If it's cracked replace it. If it's a 6v system, I'd use the reproduction Ford cables. At least you'll know that they are the correct ga. cable. I tend to run larger cables than what may be adequate in a custom system just to avoid a repeat performance. The longer the run the more critical it is. They are cheap and the embarassment is no fun! To check the connections you need to unbolt and wire brush the terminals...all of them. It still could be the starter as others have said. The windings can get hairline cracks that open up with heat.
 
If cable connections do not solve the problem: Clean the area between the starter face and the belhousing mount down to bare metal. That is the only ground for the starter. If that does not do it, it's the starter.
 
Starter bolts take of grounding, make sure they are tight and the starter to oil pan bracket is present.Often left off by lazy parts changers.Change the battery cable first,probably broken by overtightening when new.Loose battery cables will burn out head lights and your generator armature.Starter can have worn brushes or flat spot on armature.Solinoid can be jumped with a booster cable when car in in clicking mode.Use of a voltmeter will fin d trouble in less than five minutes.
 
John, The clicking sound you hear is the starter selenoid - not getting enough voltage to keep the relay closed. Easiest way to check this is, when it occurs, short across the selenoid terminals which will run batt voltage directly to the starter. All the tips on proper grounds and cables are right on. Could be any one or a combination of several. If the problem persists after you verify good grounds and cables, replace the selenoid. Ken(SC)
 
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