How do I get rid of the rust on the inside of an original windshield frame? I have been able to take the top side off exposing the openings in the sides of the frame. This gives me an opening about 3/8 inch square about 16 Inches deep for the side and the bottom about 40 inches across. Not easy access. Will a soak of Evaporust work? How would I clean out the Evaporust and dry moisture involved in the rinse? How would I then rust proof the inside? Is there any experience out there? thanks for your input.
derust windshield frame interior
- Thread starter rtruax
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
There are several methods that would work, --and Evaporust is definitely one. Another would be to plug off the "leaks" and fill it with Phosphoric Acid ( NOT Hydrochloric Acid!! ) and allow to set for a few days. Once dried, the Phosphoric will maintain a certain level of protection. If you choose to neutralize the Phosphoric, you can fill the insides with extra paint and then pour out the excess.
Sand blasting would work only on the sides as there is a 90 degree turn to the bottom.
Phosphoric acid is interesting? Never used it. it sounds like I could just let it dry. What if it got wet again (as it surely would). would it damage the metal?
This frame will go in a 1929 Cabriolet and will be painted, so chrome is not an issue for me. Still a good question. Thanks for the input. I'll keep watching for other input.
Phosphoric acid is interesting? Never used it. it sounds like I could just let it dry. What if it got wet again (as it surely would). would it damage the metal?
This frame will go in a 1929 Cabriolet and will be painted, so chrome is not an issue for me. Still a good question. Thanks for the input. I'll keep watching for other input.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Phosphoric is usually applied in a solution (percentage) with water. If you are concerned with water later, consider coating the inside with paint. I guess you are aware that the 68-A was supposed to have a chrome w/s frame.
kevinwalshe
Member
Evapo-rust. Stuff is amazing. Get a 5 gallon bucket from O'reilly and sign up on their website for 15% off and free shipping. $82 for a 5 gallon pail to my door. Been using it on all my window regulators and they are coming out great.
ModelAMike1930
Senior Member
Rust-oleum has a primer that turns rust into a paintable surface. I guess it works similar to navel jelly only its a primer and don't have to be rinsed off..
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
I would make a U shaped tank and soak in evaporust. The blow it out well and let it bake in the hot sun for a few days. Then I would get this wax based rust preventative designed or coating insides of body parts. It is used by body shops but I do not know the name.
The important considerration is you will be keeping the car inside. The minimal exposure to rain will give you many years of time unless it was bad to start with which brings me to my next point.
Is this the original cabriolet frame?
The original frames may be too rusty inside to trust. The original plating chemicals were not nice inside the frame. You must use caution if you intend to use the original frame. Unless it was from a dry place it may already be too late.
Buncy makes a great reproduction window frame. Pricey but quality is not cheap.
The important considerration is you will be keeping the car inside. The minimal exposure to rain will give you many years of time unless it was bad to start with which brings me to my next point.
Is this the original cabriolet frame?
The original frames may be too rusty inside to trust. The original plating chemicals were not nice inside the frame. You must use caution if you intend to use the original frame. Unless it was from a dry place it may already be too late.
Buncy makes a great reproduction window frame. Pricey but quality is not cheap.
It is a windshieldframe for a 68 A and I am sure that the chrome frames were used on 68B and C while the 68A frames were painted the same color as the back deck. Mine will be Seal Brown. I think that the consensus is that I should chemically clean it with Evaporust or Phosphroic Acid followed by painting. That's what I will do. T hanks to All
Clem Clement
Well-known member
My old frame on my 68B 1930 Cabbie had been replated. The cleaning agent rotted the frame from the inside. After every trip I had to use silver touchup paint and bondo to cover the holes. At Hershey an used repro aluminum frame presented itself. A little shining before each outing and the aluminum look aaaaalmost like nickel.
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Acid is hard to entirely eliminate or neutralize, especially in a complex set of traps like the WS frame.
Evaporust will not remove chrome unless it is a dangling flap over rust.
Make a long, narrow, shallow tank out of house gutter or even cardboard well supported with duct tape and lined with garbage bag, so you can get by with a limited amount, and soak it one side at a time. You can safely leave it for a long time to be sure it got everything. The remaining ER in there is harmless, but a good sloshing in the bathtub should get it out, then heat the frame enough to drive off water.
Evaporust will not remove chrome unless it is a dangling flap over rust.
Make a long, narrow, shallow tank out of house gutter or even cardboard well supported with duct tape and lined with garbage bag, so you can get by with a limited amount, and soak it one side at a time. You can safely leave it for a long time to be sure it got everything. The remaining ER in there is harmless, but a good sloshing in the bathtub should get it out, then heat the frame enough to drive off water.
mrtexas
Well-known member
Even better there is a clone of it http://rustdepot.com/ that is better. It is more concentrated than evaporust so it works faster and is less than half the price. You must mailorder but is still cheaper even with shipping.
Last edited:
mrtexas
Well-known member
I have used both Ospho(52% phosphoric acid) and Evaporust(although I prefer the clone http://rustdepot.com/), either will work. For your frame I'd get a gallon of Ospho available at hardware stores. It makes a black coating that won't rust again converting the rust to iron phosphate. Make a long and skinny container and soak until it stops bubbling. It will get all the rust. When the Ospho dries drench in primer. Evaporust will get all the rust as well but doesn't leave a rustproof coating.
Evaporust has it's unique uses as well. I've used it to free up a hinge on a 36 Ford that is just a wire with sheet metal wrapped around it. Also used it to free up needle nose pliers that had rusted shut. Couldn't do that with Ospho as it replaces rust with iron phosphate rather than dissolving it the Evaporust does.
mrtexas
Well-known member
Cleaning agent was likely hydrochloric acid not phosphoric acid. I've had replated objects rust when the plater did not properly neutralize.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
WINDSHIELD
The windshield frames of 1930-31 Cabriolets. Town
Cars (nickel through April 1929). 1930-31 Deluxe
Roadsters, Deluxe Phaetons. and Convertible Sedans
were chrome plated. Windshield finger clips (finger
pulls) were located on the lower inside edge of the
frame on mid 1928 - 1931 models such as Roadsters
and Phaetons. They were painted in 1925-29, nickel
plated on 1930-31 Standard Models and chrome plated
on 1930-31 Deluxe Models. The fastening screws
were 10-32. (with # 8 oval head). some heads were
ground flush to conform to the outline of the frame
prior to painting in 1928-29 and nickel on standard
open models or chrome on DeLuxe Roadsters and
Phaetons in 1930-31. The 1930-31 Roadster and
Phaeton windshield stanchions were stainless steel. A
few early DeLuxe Phaetons used chrome plated steel
stanchions. Windwing brackets were nickel plated in
1925-29 and fastened with a cadmium/zinc bolt and
nickel cup washer at the front and chrome in 1930-31.
(Wipers. arms and blades are judged in Area 20).
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
If you are going to make your car correct, the windsield frame would be plated as Mike V. posted the from the JS.
The front and edges were masked off and the back would be painted a flat black. This was not included in the current JS.
From a money stand point it is very expensive to go this route.
In any event, you need to seriously consider reusing an original cabriolet windshield frame. They commonly have significant rusting from the inside because the chemicals from the plating when they were made.
If you go the plating route then you want to locate a perfect rust free frame- not from a cabriolet. Some shops I talked to would not consider replating an original cabriolet frame. I am told rust bubbles may start popping up months after plating.
FWIW,
To keep costs down on my slant, I have a frame ready to be painted. I was able to work a trade with Gene Bouncy for one of his plated ready to go frames. His frames are dead on and way less risk then finding a perfect frame and sending out to plate. I think it is cheaper in the long run.
(NOTE: if you are going for a perfect show car the Bouncy frames use repro hardware and a judge might be able to tell. It might be possible to get him to build a frame with your parts.)
The front and edges were masked off and the back would be painted a flat black. This was not included in the current JS.
From a money stand point it is very expensive to go this route.
In any event, you need to seriously consider reusing an original cabriolet windshield frame. They commonly have significant rusting from the inside because the chemicals from the plating when they were made.
If you go the plating route then you want to locate a perfect rust free frame- not from a cabriolet. Some shops I talked to would not consider replating an original cabriolet frame. I am told rust bubbles may start popping up months after plating.
FWIW,
To keep costs down on my slant, I have a frame ready to be painted. I was able to work a trade with Gene Bouncy for one of his plated ready to go frames. His frames are dead on and way less risk then finding a perfect frame and sending out to plate. I think it is cheaper in the long run.
(NOTE: if you are going for a perfect show car the Bouncy frames use repro hardware and a judge might be able to tell. It might be possible to get him to build a frame with your parts.)