Decoding a Holley model 1901-FF carburetor

[Merc Cruzer]

How do I decode a Holley 1901-FF carburetor?

Second question:

Did they make different sizes of the "Tube Assy (carb main well)" # 13 on the Daytona parts sheet, for the rebuild kit. When I put the wire provided in the kit, down the Tube Assembly on two identical carbs, it goes down one and not the other. Both sets of the tubs have been cleaned. I can put a smaller wire down the one the Daytona wire will not go into. There are no makings on either set of tubs.

I have sent Daytona Parts Co. an e-mail, but thought someone might have run into this previously.

I do own the repair manual for the carburetor and my question is not address in the manual.

Thank you,

Roy

 

[petehoovie]

Re: Decoding a Holly model 1901-FF carburetor

How do I decode a Holly 1901-FF carburetor?

Thank you,

Roy

 

[scicala]

How do I decode a Holley 1901-FF carburetor?

Second question:

Did they make different sizes of the "Tube Assy (carb main well)" # 13 on the Daytona parts sheet, for the rebuild kit. When I put the wire provided in the kit, down the Tube Assembly on two identical carbs, it goes down one and not the other. Both sets of the tubs have been cleaned. I can put a smaller wire down the one the Daytona wire will not go into. There are no makings on either set of tubs.

I have sent Daytona Parts Co. an e-mail, but thought someone might have run into this previously.

I do own the repair manual for the carburetor and my question is not address in the manual.

Thank you,

Roy

Those tubes are the main well air bleeds. According to my old Holley manual, the hole on the top end should be .031" on the LIST 882 carb. It also says it's the same for '52 carbs.

Sal

 

[Merc Cruzer]

Sal,

Thank you for the reply.

After a few more calls, it turns out the difference between HOLLEY LIST: 882-1 and 694, the 694, is for the 1952-53' Mercury, standard transmission and the (882-1) is for a 1952-53' Mercury, Merc-O-Matic.

The orifice in the top of the Tube Assembly (main well) is .031 for both.

Have you tried the new Float Valves from Daytona yet?

 

[scicala]

Sal,

Thank you for the reply.

After a few more calls, it turns out the difference between HOLLEY LIST: 882-1 and 694, the 694, is for the 1952-53' Mercury, standard transmission and the (882-1) is for a 1952-53' Mercury, Merc-O-Matic.

The orifice in the top of the Tube Assembly (main well) is .031 for both.

Have you tried the new Float Valves from Daytona yet?

Yes, I've done a few Teapot style Holley carbs with the Daytona type flat disc fuel valves, and have had no complaints with that style or the tapered neddle type.

Sal

 

[Merc Cruzer]

It looks like you set the float a bit shallower with the new float valve.

I just rebuilt mine with a Daytona kit and now the accelerator pump will not work. I did it 12 years ago too, when I first got the car, and never had an issue. I have been dealing with Tim (technical assistance) there, but this this going to be a long day.

When I finished initially, I put it on the car and it started and idled beautifully, but when you push the accelerator pump, nothing is coming out the the tubes. When I put gas in just the main body, before I assembled it, and pushed the plunger, it worked beautifully. Then I assembled the main body to the throttle body and nothing. I can confirm the gas level is high enough to allow it to go through the feed hole to the accelerator pump.

Now for the answer - incorrect re-assembly:

During a lengthy discussion with the Tim at Daytona Parts Co (manufacture of the rebuild kit), I mentioned, the after reassembly, I put the carb back in the car and it idles perfectly, but would not accelerate. He knew immediately what the issue was, since it seems to be a common issue with reassembly by do it your selfers, of the Holley 1901, used on the 52'-53' Mercury's. When you are putting the the main body (the top) on to the throttle body (the bottom), the large brass tubes can match up the the holes in the nozzle tubes in two different locations. So you have a 50/50% chance of getting it right. Well lady luck was out for a beer and yes I managed to align them up to the wrong locations. After the correct alignment was achieved, I was back in business.

The first two pictures are the wrong location and the wrong installation. The second two pictures show the correct location and the correct installation.

 

[Brian]

Thanks for posting this. Whilst I never play with 'late model stuff', I am sure this thread will help other people working on these teapots.

 

[scicala]

It looks like you set the float a bit shallower with the new float valve.

I just rebuilt mine with a Daytona kit and now the accelerator pump will not work. I did it 12 years ago too, when I first got the car, and never had an issue. I have been dealing with Tim (technical assistance) there, but this this going to be a long day.

When I finished initially, I put it on the car and it started and idled beautifully, but when you push the accelerator pump, nothing is coming out the the tubes. When I put gas in just the main body, before I assembled it, and pushed the plunger, it worked beautifully. Then I assembled the main body to the throttle body and nothing. I can confirm the gas level is high enough to allow it to go through the feed hole to the accelerator pump.

Now for the answer - incorrect re-assembly:

During a lengthy discussion with the Tim at Daytona Parts Co (manufacture of the rebuild kit), I mentioned, the after reassembly, I put the carb back in the car and it idles perfectly, but would not accelerate. He knew immediately what the issue was, since it seems to be a common issue with reassembly by do it your selfers, of the Holley 1901, used on the 52'-53' Mercury's. When you are putting the the main body (the top) on to the throttle body (the bottom), the large brass tubes can match up the the holes in the nozzle tubes in two different locations. So you have a 50/50% chance of getting it right. Well lady luck was out for a beer and yes I managed to align them up to the wrong locations. After the correct alignment was achieved, I was back in business.

The first two pictures are the wrong location and the wrong installation. The second two pictures show the correct location and the correct installation.

Yes, not the easiest carbs to do. I had a gentleman send me a carb that would not accelerate too. Turned out to be the main discharge tubes were not in the correct holes on the choke shaft hollow rings when the bowl was reinstalled on the throttle body.
Not an accelerator pump issue at all.

Sal

 

[Weeback54]

Our 53 Mercury's 1901 FF is doing the same thing I will check to see if I too put it back together wrong. What is the float to be set at? 5/32 or 7/32 or???

 

[scicala]

Our 53 Mercury's 1901 FF is doing the same thing I will check to see if I too put it back together wrong. What is the float to be set at? 5/32 or 7/32 or???

The Holley manual spec is 7/32" from the gasket surface witht the float all the way up.

Sal

 

[Weeback54]

Thank you, Sal. I set the level and same as before Ideas fine but will act like it floods when I rev it up. If I creep the RPMs up I can get good results. I don't know if I got firing issues. I have a good ground to the block and battery. Plugs are fouling. Timing is 3deg adv. Seems to have good fuel pressure. Needles are 1 1/2 out. New Fuel pump, new coil, condense, and points. When I watch the fuel flow it does not spry like the carbs I'm used to.