Dead flathead

This is what separates men from boys. Now don't take that wrong. You will find some of the best mechanics on here scratching their heads about something in spite of all their experience with flatheads. If you are getting water in the oil then you have an internal leak somewhere. Did you have the heads planed? It is possible a crack in the block was overlooked. Infrared thermometers are relatively cheap and can tell you a lot about what is going on. You are not the first to run into an unexpected stone wall and you won't be the last. I think a little more investigation on the original motor will be easier than installing a different one. I personally enjoy experiencing these vehicles as built.
 
Mechanics back in 1949 were having the same troubles as you are now. Sometimes you get into situation where one thing leads to another and it will try the best mans patience to the max. If your block was Magnafluxed & pressure tested for signs of leakage and passed those tests, I would figure head gasket leakage first as was mentioned previously. Some manufacturers of gaskets make a better product than others. Most require a good coat of copper coat or at least aluminum pigment paint before installation. In any case, once you get the parts all working in unison, it will be reliable.

My Pop had many old Ford flathead vehicles. Some of the trucks would set for near a year before we needed them for wheat harvest or what have you. We would go out and pull the battery for charging. Put it in after a good charge and fire the damn things up for another 3-weeks of work before putting them up again till the fall harvest. They would work this way for many years. You just had to make certain that the cooling system was well stocked with anti-freeze for the winter months or you'd be looking for a good block for sure.

My old 51 Merc was used by the family until a new car was purchased in the early 60s then it was relegated to student driving for all of us kids. My three other siblings and I did everything to it but take good car of it. It lasted till the mid 70s before some crud in the carburettor finally sidelined it. By then we had other vehicles to drive so it was put out to pasture.

Unless your block is cracked, it shouldn't take too much to get it back up in good order. You're on a learning curve now but with the troubles your experiencing, you'll be a specialist before long.

Kerby
 
You asked why some people (us) still like the flathead when the far superior SBC is so available?The Hell for leather sound that a flathead makes,plus the smooth idle(if it is right) just about says it all.Many of us cut our teeth on flatheads.I am finishing changing out the differential on a customers 47 Ford coupe.Real sweet running car.If you heard and drove it,that would answer your questions.Keep trying.You will be able to get your engine running fine with the suggestions other concerned flathead folks have and will give you.Good skill!
 
47 flatbed said:
I am now convinced that these motors are garabage. After this rebuilt motor getting way hot in about 2 miles and now water in the oil its over I am throwing in the towel. Will someone please tell me why this old technology is so sought after.:mad:
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Yo, flatbed...I am the 'garbage' collector, if you're truely done:)!
No offense intended, but you sound like a youngin , as in..i want it now,etc.. Sounds like you have hung in there and spent plenty of money/time/effort on your vehicle thus far. Sounds like a little more patience will make you a winner..over this old iron/technology.
Long distance, it's hard to be a good helper, but I've read your stmts closely and here's where I'd go from here:
You say..'ran awesome for three wks' then trouble (i.e.- puking) To me this most importantly points up HEAD GASKETS to be checked first. Second clue pointing to head gasket failure is water in places where is ain't to be. You never said, but what checks did you do: foaming/bubbles in radiator; compression test each cyl; see which plug has water on it after short start up....all/any these easy/quick checks may reveal/suggest problem/solution. You've already given us that you had radiator cleaned/whatever..so that can rule out (for now) overheating..and it ran great for THREE wks as evidence of this. Ditto for three wks on dizzy/pumps/whatever. Ahh, but three wks...may be just about right for a poorly fitted/manufactured/torqued/whatever head gasket,eh !
Makes me sick, that is ..shelling out enough $ to do a flaty when cuz spends one third to buy a complete bowtie crate with twice the juice.

Now back to your original question re: sought after;
But, when youse grow up (back to age of user:)) with the smell/sound/LOOKS of flat tech...how do you put a $ amount of love of that?
I don't know squat about tech specifics, like Ron and others here, but I know what I like...and that's why I AM THE GARBAGE collector!
Let us know what you find.
 
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chuck stevens said:
47 flatbed, DON'T give up. I think your best bet is to find an old timer close by that likes to get his hands dirty. If you are going to tackle it yourself, take one thing at a time. Flatheads are sensitive to ignition timing, running to lean, and when fresh sometimes the extra friction will make then run warm. Pressure test the cooling system, to find where the coolant is getting in the oil. These old v8s are as dependable as the owner makes them. I just ran my 39, stock as the day it was made, 1500 miles in 4 days the only thing that gave me trouble was the fuel pump.
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:)I agree don't give up....Everyone get frustrated....myself included!!!!
 
It's easy enough to check and replace the head gaskets. I had trouble with over heating and then getting water in the oil on my 8BA. I pulled the heads and found a blown head gasket, had the heads machined just to clean them up, check the piston clearance, put it back together. I re-torqued the heads three times and I've got 10,000 miles with no other overheating problem.
 
rotorwrench>>>Unless your block is cracked, it shouldn't take too much to get it back up in good order.>>>

Paul>>>It's easy enough to check and replace the head gaskets.>>>re-torqued the heads three times>>>

Ditto. Except re-torque till NONE of the 48 numbers drift anymore! Then re-torque a few more times every so often just for good measure. 8^)

Jack E/NJ
 
to sum it all up, blown head gasket because of inproper torquring sequence, warped head because it wasnt surfaced to make sure it isnt warped, slow timing, plugged radiator, a quick check for that, with engine warmed up put your hand in front of the rad away from the fan, if the top of rad is hot and the bottom cold the radiator is plugged
 
Here is what I found today: 1. Double pulley on crank fan belt pulley not attached so I welded that puppy together. 2. Flushed out block and radiator with connector I made to attach garden hose to rad hoses since I had rad out. 3. Torque down heads again ther were a couple that were just under 48lbs.
 
I ran her for about 45 mnts after dinner and it really didn't get any hotter on either side (I ran a switch so I could monitor both sides) then 190ish. I guess thats where it needs to be?
 
I did find an old timer who has built these motors before. He did most of the assembly for me since I knew better than to do something I had little clue on. So thats the story now. Now ignition time thats the only variable that I have left. Electronic or just have Bubba rebuild what I have. I think I will take helmet style and convert it to crab at least.
 
47 flatbed said:
I did find an old timer who has built these motors before. He did most of the assembly for me since I knew better than to do something I had little clue on. So thats the story now. Now ignition time thats the only variable that I have left. Electronic or just have Bubba rebuild what I have. I think I will take helmet style and convert it to crab at least.
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This leads me to another question... I don't think you've posted which engine you have - or at least, I've overlooked it. Somehow I think it's the 47 flatbed. So, I'm wondering how a helmet-style distributor got in there ??? I would have guessed you would have a 47-style engine (59), or maybe even a six, but not something with a 'helmet'. ???
 
I am wondering if my vacum line blocked somehow, always suspected advance wasn't working. Can you take the line off the distributor & check for suction?
 
My 39 has been on the road for 5 years now.39 flathead.runs good and has never over heated even here in the Vegas summer .I would agree with Mr 42 and tinker.
 
Anything prior to 1949 (1948 trucks) were mechanical advance with a vacuum brake that slowed advance when accelerating.
 
another question i have....what kind of break-in did you do with your engine??....sounds like you might be on the road to fixing your problems....good luck and hang in there....Mike
 
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