Days before adjustable lifters

D

DWester

Member
I realize that to be able to adjust the lifters is superior to the old way, but I am curious just how it was done with the grinding method. I'm sure there's several here that have done it that way and I'd love to hear how it was done.

Darol
 
The old fella that rebuilt all of my engines (and hundreds more) never liked adjustable lifters. He believed that they were too unstable, always coming out of spec, thus "damned adjustable lifters are always needing adjustment".
He would grind the valve stem to lengthen or weld on them to make them longer if needed to bring the valve length back to spec. I gotta say he was good at it and his rebuilds were among the best I've used...slim
 
I've been looking all over the internet for something about pre adjustable lifters and haven't been able to find anything except info on adjustables. I just assumed that it was the better way to go these days.:confused: I'm sure there's something out there, I just haven't stumbled on to it yet.

I really would like to learn more about the steps in which it was performed.
 
The shop I used charges $100 for a valve job for adjustables, and $200 for non-adjustables. He told me he hasn't done one without adjustables in 10 years. But personally I'd go for the stock lifters if I had a good set, next time. What can go wrong with stock?
 
DWester said:
I realize that to be able to adjust the lifters is superior to the old way, but I am curious just how it was done with the grinding method. I'm sure there's several here that have done it that way and I'd love to hear how it was done.

Darol
Click to expand...

To butt grind the valve for stock lifters you have to have a valve grinder with a butt grinder attachment, You cain't do on a bench grinder. If there to short you have to weld up the stem and grind it off. There's nothing to it if you have the equipment. Walt
 
Ok hears the true old skool tech for non adjustable lifters.
there is a tool that you insert into the valve pocket . you set the cam on the heal and slid the tool in until it sets directly on the cam heal. there is a sliding 45 degree ring that you set right on to the newly ground valve seat. You then lock it in place with the t screw so it will not move . You then have another tool that has a 45 degree seat you insert the first tool into .On this receiver tool at the bottom is a micrometer that measures the total distance from the valve seat to the cam heal. then you subtract the valve lash clearance you wish and that is the length of the finished valve .If your valve is to long then you will know just how much to remove from the valve stem. there is a micrometer on the but grinding end of the proper type valve machine that you can set to cut just what needs to be removed .I'll take photos of the tools tomorrow and post them here. when a cam has been reground the base circle is reduced and some times you will need longer stems on the valve . 1.5 Chevy valves will do the job as they are 100 thousandths longer in the stem. however depending on how much was ground off the cam and valve seat will determine how long they need to be cut down..I hope this helps everyone understand how its done.. Look for photos tomorrow ....John
 
My grandfather had an old Sunnen valve machine that ground stems. He replaced it with a Souix. About three times as big. Not sure if it would grind stems.

Bruce

works good
Lasts long time
 
Well, after a few visits to Walt's shop I found a B & D valve machine. Just rebuilt a 52 Merc engine and butt ground the valve clearances. Fun and only screwed up one stem (sticky lifter). Engine will go on my test stand when I get home next month if the snow ever melts up north (8 more inches forecast for tomorrow):(.
John
 
Below here are 2 shots of the attachment mentioned above, it makes grinding the stem lengths easy work. This is on a Kwik-Way valve grinder.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. It doesn't get much use here anynore, just about all our builds get the original Johnson tappets. It takes only about minute to set it up and as mentioned above, there are increments on the feed wheel!
 

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  • Valve Grinding Stem End A.JPG
    Valve Grinding Stem End A.JPG
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  • Valve Grinding Stem End B.JPG
    Valve Grinding Stem End B.JPG
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I was, and still are, a strong supporter of non adjustable tappets...However, after useing a set made by Flatattack in Australia, i'm now a convert...They've been installed for around 4yr's and have not moved ...being checked twice in that period...
Because of the cam, the valves stems needed to be built up......
so i made a setup broadly based on the above photo's...but used a bench type post drill with the jig bolted to the drill pad, and a very hard 1 1/2" diam. stone in the chuck...A photo was posted on the forum some years ago, but it copped a few sniggers and laugh's...It probably wasn't very pretty to look at..... but it worked......
Guess who had the last laugh....?
 
john mullen said:
Ok hears the true old skool tech for non adjustable lifters.
there is a tool that you insert into the valve pocket . you set the cam on the heal and slid the tool in until it sets directly on the cam heal. there is a sliding 45 degree ring that you set right on to the newly ground valve seat. You then lock it in place with the t screw so it will not move . You then have another tool that has a 45 degree seat you insert the first tool into .On this receiver tool at the bottom is a micrometer that measures the total distance from the valve seat to the cam heal. then you subtract the valve lash clearance you wish and that is the length of the finished valve .If your valve is to long then you will know just how much to remove from the valve stem. there is a micrometer on the but grinding end of the proper type valve machine that you can set to cut just what needs to be removed .I'll take photos of the tools tomorrow and post them here. when a cam has been reground the base circle is reduced and some times you will need longer stems on the valve . 1.5 Chevy valves will do the job as they are 100 thousandths longer in the stem. however depending on how much was ground off the cam and valve seat will determine how long they need to be cut down..I hope this helps everyone understand how its done.. Look for photos tomorrow ....John
Click to expand...

Looking forward to the pics John, not seen the proper two measuring tools.
Martin.
 
Martin, I found a guy with a set of those tools for sale at Enfield Pageant. he wanted a bit too much for them though. (£50-ish?)

I know, I'm tight.

I set up my first flathead with the non adjustables NOS from Wally Wheatley. To my mind, they make a lot of sense when used in conjunction with the mushroom foot valves. Big contact area equals minimum wear. I've used adjustables in the other motors (not that many) but did strip a 59A that had 8BA valves and non adjustables and I could see where the smaller valve stems had worn into the lifters.

Incidentally, the NOS lifters bore the Ford description "pushrod".

Mart.
 
I'm wondering how Ford did it at the factory, with so many engines being built I bet they were quick at doing a valve setup or did everything just fit?
 
Mart, I must be tight aswell, I've got a Black and Decker Valve Master, but I don't think I'd pop £50 for the measurement tools.
Its a great machine, Every car I own has got nice fresh valve seats and valves. I also have Wolf valve seat grinder.
I like the stock lifters, their so light and stay in spec for a long time.
The 8BA that you speak of, did it have the correct 8BA lifters with the small flat on them, or early ones with the big flat for the mushroom valve tips?
I like the push rod name for them, also sparking plugs and starting motor.
Martin.
 
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