data plate

P

piddler

Junior Member
The gentleman that owns the 1956 station wagon that I am looking at sent me a photo of the data plate so I could get a little more information.

I am having trouble with the number. The car is red and a cream color and the plate indicates that it was originally black and grey. I can understand how this could be on a 60 year old car. I have changed the color of a few of them myself.

The plate number is: 79C-K-AT-29-M-and the production number . I went to the data plate decoders and could not get a match for the body type or trim code. The picture is not very clear so I might not have the complete body type number.

Any help would be appreciated, Pete
 
79c is a Fairlane wagon 8 seater
K is Fiesta Red
AT is white vinyl and red woven plastic
29 M is 29 December
 
Thanks. That is pretty much what the car looks like.

Where did you find this information?

BTW, I visited your beautiful while on R&R in early 1967. I hope to visit again someday.
 
I was hoping you would list the first digit of the VIN. The curiosity of what engine was original is killing me.

Sal
 
I am looking at this car for a driver and maybe a few short trips. It is about 10 hours away so I am trying to get all the information that I can before I drive down to look at it.

Any help, advice or warnings appreciated, Pete
 
Thank you Pete. Good luck with the car. It did originally come with a 292 with the old Holley 4000 (Teapot 4 barrel carb. I believe other Ford Barner's have supplied some pic's of the dual diaphragm distributor and some casting numbers. Block is more than likely ECZ - A, or B. Possibly ECZ - C too. Those were the only blocks used on 292's and 312's in 1956.
Rear main seal leaks are also almost normal on those engines. Listen for excessive clacking of the rockers, which could indicate oiling problems because of sludge, or just out of adjustment. Pulling a valve cover is easy if the seller will allow it.

Sal
 
Those old Y-blocks were bad about excessive blow-by when they got worn after they got to operating temperature. Slight blow-by is pretty normal. Make sure no one has configured a system to suck the fumes into the intake in an effort to hide the blow-by. This will eventually cause the plugs to foul. The only way to cure the blow-by is a rebuild. To check it, simply remove the oil fill cap and observe how much smoke is coming out. As Scicala noted, rear main leaks are not a show stopper. If it is a Ford-O-Matic, after it is up to operating temperature, go through all the gears, including low, to make sure it doesn't slip or shudder when shifting.

The worst place for rust will be behind the lower quarter panels, under the battery box, and lower rear part of the front fenders.

In case you are not familiar with old cars, don't worry if the brake pedal is a bit low or has to be pumped a couple of times to get a full pedal. Until '58 when self adjusters were introduced on Fords, the brakes had to be adjusted about once every 2 months.

These are great old cars; hope you get it and enjoy it for many years.
 
"Piddler" the info is easily obtained if you get hold of a copy of the 49-59 Ford Parts Catalogue. I got a copy years ago from a couple of sources. Hot Rod Reverend on this forum used to sell PDF copies of it. I don't know if he still does. There were others as well. It's the best investment you'll ever make when owning one of these cars.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top