Darned reproduction parts!

Garcia

Garcia

Member
I complained last week about the ill-fitting ignition repair kit, and I'm complaining this week about the poorly-designed choke rod set. Whereas Henry attached the knob firmly to the rod, the reproducers have made a rod with the knob screwed on.

Using such a rod, particularly with new grommets, means when you get ready to start your Model A by turning the knob clockwise until the adjustment needle seats, then turning it counterclockwise about a quarter turn, you're actually just unscrewing the knob by a quarter turn.

I'll be getting some red Loctite soon. Until then, my smallest Vise Grip is attached to the rod so I can actually turn the rod rather than unscrewing the knob.
 
Your right with the red LockTite, but you needn't turn the knob clockwise at startup. just open some until the engine warms up and then clockwise when you wish to lean things a bit.
 
Last edited:
My knob/rod are also threaded. Came with the car 45 yrs ago, thought thats how they were. But I have kept it tight and it doesn't come loose.

There isn't much need to play with the GAV unless you just want to play with it. During cool weather an extra 1/2 turn out to start for the first 1/4 mile is all it needs. At least that's all mine needs and it really doesn't need that if I don't mind a cough or two.
 
Locktite is good. I just took my vise grips and held the shaft and gave the knob a good hard tightening. Been fine since!
 
if you are unhappy with the parts.......nobody is stopping you from making them yourself...........


think about that for a moment. lol
 
ronn said:
if you are unhappy with the parts.......nobody is stopping you from making them yourself....
Click to expand...

Touché. If I could weld, turn on a lathe, and plate metal, I'd tell those vendors what to do with their imperfect parts.

Until then, I'd should probably be grateful the parts are available at all.
 
I read, (on here, a book or somewhere that WASNT Facebook) you can open the GAV up to a full turn to start the motor, then lean it out to 1/4 turn. I have done this lately, and she starts easier than before. I start to lean her out as soon as she fires off. Also tried shutting the GAV off driving down the road, it acts like I turned off the fuel. Cracked open to about 9 0clock position and she still acts starved for fuel, so 8 oclock is it.

One day I plan to have to carb rebuilt, see if the correct jets are in it. I kinda doubt it.
 
Garcia said:
I complained last week about the ill-fitting ignition repair kit, and I'm complaining this week about the poorly-designed choke rod set. Whereas Henry attached the knob firmly to the rod, the reproducers have made a rod with the knob screwed on.

Using such a rod, particularly with new grommets, means when you get ready to start your Model A by turning the knob clockwise until the adjustment needle seats, then turning it counterclockwise about a quarter turn, you're actually just unscrewing the knob by a quarter turn.

I'll be getting some red Loctite soon. Until then, my smallest Vise Grip is attached to the rod so I can actually turn the rod rather than unscrewing the knob.
Click to expand...

If you have a small nut of the same size and thread as the rod, and have
enough threads on the end of the rod, put the nut on then the knob, tighten
the nut to lock the knob.
 
ETAModel said:
One day I plan to have to carb rebuilt, see if the correct jets are in it. I kinda doubt it.
Click to expand...

If your car starts, runs, and idles well it would be advisable to leave the carburetor alone. Start with it and pretty soon you will have the engine open all over your garage floor!
 
ETAModel said:
I read, (on here, a book or somewhere that WASNT Facebook) you can open the GAV up to a full turn to start the motor, then lean it out to 1/4 turn. I have done this lately, and she starts easier than before. I start to lean her out as soon as she fires off. Also tried shutting the GAV off driving down the road, it acts like I turned off the fuel. Cracked open to about 9 0clock position and she still acts starved for fuel, so 8 oclock is it.

One day I plan to have to carb rebuilt, see if the correct jets are in it. I kinda doubt it.
Click to expand...

It's sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The GAV supplies the cap jet and main jet. It does not supply the idle jet. So if it affects starting, you are not pulling enough vacuum at idle, and your throttle plate is partially open.
 
Garcia said:
Touché. If I could weld, turn on a lathe, and plate metal, I'd tell those vendors what to do with their imperfect parts.

Until then, I'd should probably be grateful the parts are available at all.
Click to expand...

I agree,

I have a lathe and can weld but I still need to buy some parts from the suppliers. Often I have to do some rework to get the results I am looking for.

I try to buy only the best quality parts possible but often we do not have a lot of choices.

Chris W.
 
Last edited:
whirnot said:
It's sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The GAV supplies the cap jet and main jet. It does not supply the idle jet. So if it affects starting, you are not pulling enough vacuum at idle, and your throttle plate is partially open.
Click to expand...

Bill, I may be confused, but I thought the GAV supplied the Cap jet, not the Main jet. On my Zenith carb the GAV has a direct path to the Cap jet. But some Zeniths have the GAV path to the Secondary Well and then to the Cap from the Well. On my carb the Main jet is supplied only from the back side of the fuel bowl.

Now I'll really stick my neck out. On a cold start, the throttle is cracked open a significant amount, an amount that would run the engine well beyond the idle circuit's capacity. Opening the GAV also supplies additional fuel when the choke is used???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top