D-nut / Clinch nut

Hster

Hster

Member
I would like to replace some of the D-nuts or Clinch nuts in the sheet metal lip that holds the floorboards. What is the method to remove and replace them?
 
I think the easiest way is to carefully grind off the peened-over lip of the old one, until you can see the outline of the "D" shape, and then just tap them out. Need to be careful to only grind the "D" nut lip, without thinning the sheetmetal. Then the new "D" nut can easily be slipped in and peened over.
 
The D nuts get peened over but what holds the nut flush while it gets peened. Is there a tool that holds them in place or a tool that can roll the lip over? How was it do when they were made?
 
Hster said:
The D nuts get peened over but what holds the nut flush while it gets peened. Is there a tool that holds them in place or a tool that can roll the lip over? How was it do when they were made?
Click to expand...

have you done a search as we talked about this subject some months ago, though I hasten to add I myself find searching somewhat challenging on this site. I recall one member uses a ball bearing and a C-Clamp somehow but it was described in detail in that thread.

Maybe someone with a photographic memory, or at least superior search powers, can help out.
 
If I remember correctly, the post ericr is referring to, used a decent sized C clamp and a larger ball bearing to "set" the top part of the D nut. The C clamp would provide pressure to the ball bearing to force the top part outward. Once the top part is force outward, a ball peen hammer could be used to finish the installation. I bought several ball bearing on eBay to try the technique, but like many things, I have not needed to tried it yet. I think that maybe the ball bearing might need to have a flat spot made on the top to keep the C clamp from slipping - but maybe not.
Rusty Nelson
 
wrndln said:
If I remember correctly, the post ericr is referring to, used a decent sized C clamp and a larger ball bearing to "set" the top part of the D nut. The C clamp would provide pressure to the ball bearing to force the top part outward. Once the top part is force outward, a ball peen hammer could be used to finish the installation. I bought several ball bearing on eBay to try the technique, but like many things, I have not needed to tried it yet. I think that maybe the ball bearing might need to have a flat spot made on the top to keep the C clamp from slipping - but maybe not.
Rusty Nelson
Click to expand...

Thanks I might give this method a try.
 
as posted on a different thread you can also go to google search and type in fordbarn clinch and things will come up

or even fordbarn clinch nut on a search engine
 
1930 coupe,
Nice find. I was looking for this string, but evidently I wasn't using the right terms(s) for my search. Thanks - I remember the string, but couldn't find it. Since you posted the ball bearing response, I guess you knew the right terms.
Rusty Nelson
 
I have always had trouble getting the D-nuts tight. Especially if you peen them over and if loose they will chip the new paint as they slide around before /during assembly. I have also ran into the Brass ones. So I have used silver solder in places like the deck lid for rumble hinges where peening is out of the question.....just a thought!
 
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Ken Ehrenhofer said:
I have always had trouble getting the D-nuts tight. Especially if you peen them over and if loose they will chip the new paint as they slide around before /during assembly. I have also ran into the Brass ones. So I have used silver solder in places like the deck lid for rumble hinges where peening is out of the question.....just a thought!
Click to expand...

Ken, since you have removed the originals, something tells me the originals likely had an easier go at installation....did you find the originals had like a thinner lip on the top of it which facilitated installation?
 
I just backed them up with a body dollie and hammer carefully on them until they're tight and uniformly "mashed". I can't say that any of them ended up loose that way; they all seemed to be pretty snug for me. I think if you grind the sheetmetal too thin to remove the orignal nut, then it'll be a lot more likely that the new one could be loose.

It seems to me that the originals must have been installed with some sort of press or pneumatic hammer fixture, as they always seem very uniform w/o the look of someone rapidly hammering on them. The "mashed" portion is always perfectly round and smooth in the ones I've looked at.
 
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