Cylinder sleeveing distortion?

H

HopRod

Member
Hi All,
I have an 8ba block that is in need of 1 sleeve to fix a pitting issue on #4 cylinder after water seeped into the cylinder during a period of extended inactivity (head gasket or previous pin repair didn't hold). The block is pretty fresh and is at 3.3125 now. All the rotating assembly is in good condition and is fully balanced.
My question is, will installing a sleeve in cylinder #4 distort cylinder #3 enough where I would have ring sealing issues in #3 due to the sleeve interference fit?
 
HopRod said:
Hi All,
I have an 8ba block that is in need of 1 sleeve to fix a pitting issue on #4 cylinder after water seeped into the cylinder during a period of extended inactivity (head gasket or previous pin repair didn't hold). The block is pretty fresh and is at 3.3125 now. All the rotating assembly is in good condition and is fully balanced.
My question is, will installing a sleeve in cylinder #4 distort cylinder #3 enough where I would have ring sealing issues in #3 due to the sleeve interference fit?
Click to expand...


Most likely not if proper press fit is used to install the sleeve. The adjacent cylinder won't be affected.
 
The way the flathead block is designed there's no distortion. If the block had siamese cylinders then there's a slight possibility that could happen if the job was done correctly.
Ronnieroadster
 
As Ronnie noted, no two cylinders in a flathead share any common cast-iron material, so what you do to one cylinder should not influence any cylinder that is around it.
 
If they block has previously been "pinned" to correct a crack, then you should put some ceramic seal into clean water upon initial start-up. If there is a slight water leak, this will usually fix it. You must follow the instructions to the letter and sometimes I use TWO applications right after initial startup. You must drain the stuff out after each initial run (say 15 minutes each). Flush the system well after you're done. I use Moroso Ceramic Seal.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. A reputable machine shop I was talking to about doing the work said it could be a possibility. I thought it sounded logical, kind of like using a torque plate to do final hone on the cylinders to simulate the stresses of the head bolted down and what that can do to the cylinders shape. Maybe this is more common on other types and brands of engines.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
If they block has previously been "pinned" to correct a crack, then you should put some ceramic seal into clean water upon initial start-up. If there is a slight water leak, this will usually fix it. You must follow the instructions to the letter and sometimes I use TWO applications right after initial startup. You must drain the stuff out after each initial run (say 15 minutes each). Flush the system well after you're done. I use Moroso Ceramic Seal.
Click to expand...

Yes, I definitely will have to do that!
 
HopRod said:
Thanks for the replies so far. A reputable machine shop I was talking to about doing the work said it could be a possibility. I thought it sounded logical, kind of like using a torque plate to do final hone on the cylinders to simulate the stresses of the head bolted down and what that can do to the cylinders shape. Maybe this is more common on other types and brands of engines.
Click to expand...

On our all out competition Ford flathead blocks we always use a torque plate for the final honing. Distortion is possible once the bore is at 3-5/16 and larger.
On a street engine or a restoration rebuild there's really nothing to worry about.
For those of us who like to do the best possible a torque plate is added to the must do list.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ege has 3 5/16 +.020/.030 pISTONS. tHEY MIGHT SELL YOU ONE AND THAT WOULD SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM. mIGHT BE BALANCED WITH THE PRESENT PISTONS. Sorry about the caps
G
 
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