Bassman/NZ
Well-known member
I'm getting my 59A ready to hone the cylinders. There's no lip, I just want to scuff the walls ready for new rings. Any advice here, eg: what lubricant to use?
Cylinder honing.
- Thread starter Bassman/NZ
- Start date
Ronnie
Well-known member
Hone it with engine oil.Make sure you use a ball hone as it will do you well,not one of those spring loaded 3 legged turds.You can hone with Crisco oil as well it works good.
Wipe the cylinder with a clean rag after honing.Then proceed to wash the cylinder wall with hot water and tide laundry soap.Also wash up the bottoms of the cylinders where they blend around into the crankcase.Don't wash with gasoline,diesel fuel,solvent or any petroleum based solvents or brake clean.Just let the detergent do its job.
Just soap and hot water.You could use a non pumice hand cleaner it also performs well.After the last wash spray with wd 40 and wipe down with a clean white rag.There must not be any gray smudges on the rag if so you haven't cleaned enough.This is a tried and true cleaning method.Even after a hot tank you still need to wash.Don't re invent the wheel just wash as described and i guarantee you success.
Hopes this helps.
R
Since you are only doing a final wall preparation I prefer the brush hone. It will quickly cover all the little nooks and crannies within the cylinder wall and provide a proper finish texture for the new rings. However, I am not against using the ball hone if that is what is available.
Everything from motor oil to kerosene to auto trans fluid to special honing oil has been suggested for use when honing. And most will work. As already pointed out, the most important element of the job is to get everything clean when finished. I use a white paper towel wetted with acetone to check for wall cleanliness. If the towel cannot be wiped through the cylinder walls without showing dirty stains you must get back to work with the soap and water.
Everything from motor oil to kerosene to auto trans fluid to special honing oil has been suggested for use when honing. And most will work. As already pointed out, the most important element of the job is to get everything clean when finished. I use a white paper towel wetted with acetone to check for wall cleanliness. If the towel cannot be wiped through the cylinder walls without showing dirty stains you must get back to work with the soap and water.
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
If you are doing it with the crank in I would jam paper & rags in there to catch as much swafe as possible and only hone just below the ring line .What type of rings are you useing ,best suppler ,Crome ?? old stock Ford .Special multi piece oil ring 4 or 3 ring .
Ronnie
Well-known member
If you were doing an in chassis job you can also use Crisco that is used for cooking and looks like lard it doesn't run all over the place compared to honing oils and is reasonably easy to cleanup as compared to the remains of oil based products.You only need a blob the size of a marble to get the job done no where near the amount of cleanup required as it doesn't run down like oil.Bin there done that many times. I hope this helps.
R
Bassman/NZ
Well-known member
Thanks Ronnie...
Flathead Ted, I did'nt understand your post. Are you saying you have ring sets for sale? If so, mine are 3 3/16" + 0.045 3 ring. If you have some maybe you could PM me, otherwise I will go to Ajays for them, I guess.
Flathead Ted, I did'nt understand your post. Are you saying you have ring sets for sale? If so, mine are 3 3/16" + 0.045 3 ring. If you have some maybe you could PM me, otherwise I will go to Ajays for them, I guess.
Ronnie
Well-known member
Looks like you have or need a file fit ring which is it.
Also what are the ring widths required.
Post the info and I will try and get you a part number.
R