Cutout sticking

Colorado Greg

Colorado Greg

Senior Member
I have an original script cutout and it sticks sometimes after shutting the ignition off. It seems to be worse if I have the generator turned up for night driving. It has always released by itself, but takes up to a minute or so. I have opened it up and filed the contacts clean but this didn't seem to make a difference with the sticking. If I tap the cutout with a screwdriver it has always released right away. Any ideas of what else can I do to get this to release better?
 
Covert your original cutout, install a diode which only passes current in one direction. I have converted mine a long time ago and have never had a problem since.

I believe most dealers sell the kit and most also sell a cutout already converted; they are quite expensive so I have chose to convert my own.

Ron
 
I also had a cutout that stuck sometimes, about the same time I was rebuilding a Plymouth alternator for a bad diode, had some of the old ones that were still good, I took one and gutted the cutout reley except for the frame, drilled a hole in it,pressed the diode in ----so far it has been in there for 35+ years

As for fixing the original there are some adjustments by bending, perhaps if the cut-in voltage is too low the cut out voltage can be too low also, the reverse current changes the polarity of the "magnet" and should help the release, --perhaps you can change some adjustments.
Cutout--
close voltage-7-7.5 V
open-0-25A discharge
contact gap--.015-.020
core gap, contacts closed-.010
 
Colorado Greg said:
I have an original script cutout and it sticks sometimes after shutting the ignition off. It seems to be worse if I have the generator turned up for night driving. It has always released by itself, but takes up to a minute or so. I have opened it up and filed the contacts clean but this didn't seem to make a difference with the sticking. If I tap the cutout with a screwdriver it has always released right away. Any ideas of what else can I do to get this to release better?
Click to expand...

Greg,

Take the advice of Mr. Rude and Kurt and Ron...

I had been running an original cutout but in 1984 it stuck and burned up my generator in a place far from home.

Not good.

Rebuilt the generator and took apart the original cut out and replaced the innerds with a diode and put it back together on the new rebuilt generator...have had no problems...knock on wood!

That was 1984.

Pluck
 
I use an original cutout and have never had a problem. Clean the contacts with a very fine sandpaper to give the contacts a smooth finish. I use an EVR so that also lets the cutout live an easier life. As Kurt said, check the adjustments. I use compressed air to blow away any small metal filings that seem to find there way to the top of the core.

Diodes also work fine.
 
I never had much luck repairing bad cutouts I gutted a few and installed diodes. It requires a small amount of soldering. Brattons sells a diode replacement with instructions for around six bucks, Snyders has a different diode conversion for two dollars and something. The diode is good for a twenty amp continious charge. I am running a diode conversionson my 31 tudor. It has performed well for the past 12 years. I run the Fun projects can style regulator on my roadster. It looks like the early 28 cutout. Here is a pictureof the can style voltage regulator on my roadster.

Jam786.jpg
 
If you install a diode in place of the cut-out keep in mind a diode has a very small reverse current draw. When parking the car for a long period of time pull the fuse on the starter if you have one. Turning the key off does not disconnect the generator from the battery and over a period of time it will drain the battery if left connected.

Tom Endy
 
Also, if you buy a diode cutout the diode needs a good heat sink to carry the heat away. The diode cutout made by A&L is the best one I have seen and it has a large heat sink.
 
Not for the sake of disagreement but I have had no problems with Brattons or Snyders diodes that I have installed in junk cut outs. Neither has ever overheated or drained the battery. At times I have let my 31 tudor sit for two months and it would crank right up. The repro diode cut outs are pretty outrageously priced when you consider that you can buy the diode for a few dollars and install it yourself. All that I used was an electric soldering gun and a small amount of rosin core solder. I don't trust the original eighty something year old cut out and the repro cut outs may not work, right out of the box.
 
Thanks for all of the replies! I would like to keep the original cutout and will try to get it working correctly. I'm not opposed to running a diode cutout but sure hate to cut up an original part. It gives me an excuse to go to Bert's (nice to be so close) and see if I can come up with a good working cutout or a junk one to cut up. I also have a spare generator with a square cutout but haven't tried it yet.
Thanks again, Greg
 
Tom, If I wanted to go to Radioshack and buy my own diode, what would I be looking for? I was unaware that a cutout or diode cutout should be run with a EVR. I guess I just wasn't thinking it through.
Thank you
 
ctlikon0712 said:
Tom, If I wanted to go to Radioshack and buy my own diode, what would I be looking for? I was unaware that a cutout or diode cutout should be run with a EVR. I guess I just wasn't thinking it through.
Thank you
Click to expand...

The cutout or diode cutout do not need the EVR to function. The EVR "adds" automatic regulation instead of the manual adjustment of the 3rd brush.
 
Greg,

The tension of the contact spring needs to be adjusted. The cutout (open) should happen when the ammeter reads between 0 and 2 amps. Adjust it as close as possible to zero to prevent points from arcing and burning out.


I am close to having a web page on this topic. Here is a drawing I would like to share. I put it as a pdf so it would be easy to download, print and E-mail.
http://modelabasics.com/Cutout/cutoutExplodedDwg.pdf


Paul
 
Last edited:
I have a friend here in Quincy who has an electrical shop. He orders me 30 Amp, 6 Volt Positive Ground Diodes; the cost is $5.oo each; I do my own conversion on the original cutouts.

As someone else said, I too have never had a problem with the battery going dead while the A is setting for a month or two and not run. I run the fuse block on my starter just for protection of the other wiring, however, I do not bother to pull the fuse when parked for a period of time.

Ron
 
RonC said:
The cutout or diode cutout do not need the EVR to function. The EVR "adds" automatic regulation instead of the manual adjustment of the 3rd brush.
Click to expand...

Yes, I realize that an original cut out doesn't need the EVR to work, they didn't have EVR's or even Diodes then. But what I meant was I thought the EVR handled everything, didn’t realize an EVR still needed some sort of switch or one way filter..... The Fun Projects EVR does away with the Cutout so I guess I just figured it wasn't needed even if you went with Tom's version. Now I realize that that isn't so. Tom's version is probably what I’m going to do with my own diode cut out...... Thanks for your thoughts and answers.
 
ctlikon0712 said:
Tom, If I wanted to go to Radioshack and buy my own diode, what would I be looking for? I was unaware that a cutout or diode cutout should be run with a EVR. I guess I just wasn't thinking it through.
Thank you
Click to expand...


30 amp with a voltage rating of at least 24 volts, ( most high power diodes will have over 100 volt rating). The PIV (peak inverse voltage) rating should also be 48volts or higher.
Good engineering standards is to use a component rating at least 2 – 3 x the expected normal operating range.

Or just purchase one from your favorite "A" parts supplier.
 
30ccpickup said:
Greg,

The tension of the contact spring needs to be adjusted. The cutout (open) should happen when the ammeter reads between 0 and 2 amps. Adjust it as close as possible to zero to prevent points from arcing and burning out.

Paul
Click to expand...

Greg/Paul, the information I have from Form 3672-47F 1947 from Ford is Cut-in Voltage 6.1 Min. and 6.3 Max.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top