Cutout Diode and Ignition switch?

[RTC1930]

Got 2 more elec questions for ya.
1: I had a bit of a short pop up and discovered it was due to the cutout terminal breaking through the internal insulation and shorted to the housing. I have a diode in my cutout so before I put it back together is there a quick multi meter test I can run on it to make sure I didn't damage the diode? Not sure how robust they are.

2: I have a regular ignition switch (non-popout) in my 1930 town sedan and wondering if there is a method to running the armored cable to it where it won't strain the wire? There doesn't appear to be a good way to hold the cable in place like the pop-out switches have. Am I missing a part or should I cut the armored section back to relieve the strain so it doesn't tug sideways on the wire terminal?

As always thanks for the help,
Bob NJ

 

[Ron in Quincy]

Diode Testing: with no wires connected, using ohm meter, you should have continuity throughthe diode toward battery. Connect ohm meter in reverse and you should not have continuity from battery side toward generator.

Ignition Cable: For years I have modified original or replacement cables:

I leave enough cable to just get through the terminal box so everything looks normal; I cut the cable in two places (!) just beyond terminal box (2) just below ignition switch. Go half way between these two points and cut the cable and wire; remove the cable; you can add some extra wire if you wish then place a pulg connector near the switch. When you want to check somthing behind the dash you take out the four mounting screws and the dash drops down or it can be removed without fighting the ignition switch.

Ron

 

[RTC1930]

Thanks! Looks like the diode still works and as for the cable I went back and looked in the catalog and see they have a cable with shortened armor. Guess I should have bought this type instead so I will cut back the armor.

Thanks again,
Bob, NJ