Cut and buff

mrtexas

Well-known member
I'm getting ready to spray some fenders and then the 29 roadster body. Anyone recommend the following buffers? Is this what I need? How to do it?

Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher
DeWalt Buffer Polisher Model 849
 
I have the older 7424 model
Well made,variable speed, good price, orbital, light. easy to get pads backing plates etc. Great tool
 
Since we use air-powered equipment, I cannot help you with any experience with those two models. The mindset with cutting/buffing is that you are applying an abrasive onto the pad and allowing it to remove the high spots. IMHO, this method does not allow for the quality I like so we use a piece of sandpaper to level the surfaces first. By "colorsanding" the painted surface with progressively finer grits of paper, this effectively removed the larger scratches and makes a nice smooth surface. Then a compound media can be applied to the surface and buffed to a high lustre. Is this what you are asking??
 
I think Brent, you forgot to mention......"With lots and lots of clean water". Huge amount of work and time for perfection.
 
Last edited:
It is a tremendous amount of work. If you don't sand the finish to a flat dull even surface it will show. It must be completely dull no matter how you look at it. Also apply an extra coat of paint, so you don't sand through. If you do sand through, you learn to blend in paint.
 
Is there a "set time" with the two stage solid colors before you wet sand? Sanding others paint, is always risky since you don't have knowledge of how much and were it was applied . I'd like to know if imperfections in the primer show through the paind at some angles of viewing. Some how the old paints worked easier IMO.
 
Is there a "set time" with the two stage solid colors before you wet sand? Sanding others paint, is always risky since you don't have knowledge of how much and were it was applied . I'd like to know if imperfections in the primer show through the paind at some angles of viewing. Some how the old paints worked easier IMO.

It is something where 'sperience plays in. Yes, to a certain extent the older paint gets, the more it hardens making honing it much more difficult. The more the shell hardens though, that generally translates to a smoother finish and deeper shine.

With regard to knowing how much paint and where it is applied, I think this is a deal where an experienced painter does indeed know because we generally apply an additional coat during the "cutting in" process on the areas that are subject to more rubbing (edges). Also, something that many do not realize is that a top quality spray gun applies the paint much smoother requiring less color sanding to get the paint surface flat. Therefore much less paint is removed.

A quick answer is "Yes", any imperfections in the primer will indeed transfer through to the finish coat. I don't really think that the old paints worked any better, ...I personally think the "level of expectation" has increased. We expect the panels to be straighter, the alignment & gaps to be better, and the shine to be deeper.
 
Brent, I love it when you post. I learn a bunch from you. Thanks and please don't get tired of answering questions, even the common ones, as I haven't read them all yet.
 
Back
Top