creamy oil

roddyb34

roddyb34

Senior Member
the oil on the dipstick of my sons A engine is a lightish mid brown color ,the radiator hasent lost water nor is there any leakage evidence at head to block join ,hope it nothing too bad ,having said that we havent been far either ,might do an oil change and give it a good run,see how it goes ,,,
 
Creamy oil on toast um um um.

I would change the oil, drive it and check it again after about 100 miles.

There is water in the oil and it doesn't take much to turn it into chocolate milk. Why? Could be short runs that caused condensation, water leaked in while you were touquing the head over several times, head not torqued completely are a few.
 
Thanks Mike ,you put it so nicely ,yes that will be the plan ,hopefully at worst pull the head and replace gasket ,the coupe hasnt done a lot of miles over the time its been in Australia as its not been registered ,needs some TLC in a few areas to get it ready for the road,,, an extra tailite ,some indicators ,steering box work ,etc,,,,Regards Rod,,,
 
You can look up oil testing on the net and find an oil lab near you. They can check a sample of oil for antifreeze and water for a very small fee. Usually $15 or less including a postage paid container. It will also give you a run down on the wear conditions present in your engine. All Caterpillar dealers have this service as well as many independent labs. I would suggest that before removing the head. Results are very fast turnaround.
 
Hi Roddy, It doesn't take much for water to get in the oil. Up here in the northeast, condensation can happen at the drop of a hat! I've done a couple of things, though. I have installed a small petcock in the oil pan plug so that I can decant off water when it collects in the oil pan without losing oil. This I usually do twice a year not counting the oil change. You'd be surprised at the amount I sometimes get in the jar I use to collect it (up to half a cup). It also allows me to check oil clarity more accurately than relying on the dipstick.
The other thing I've done is to install an oil breather between the valve galley and the air filter intake on the carb so that emmisions, including water vapor, are eaten and re-burned by the engine. You have no idea how clean my engine compartment has become since I did that! Good Luck...
 
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I like to hope for the best. Have you washed the engine recently and maybe allowed water into the engine? How is that for positive thinking?

Charlie Stephens
 
Jeff - your Valvoline experience is interesting. I've been using it exclusively for 40 years in around 30 different cars. The only time I found what you are describing was in a '90 Ford Ranger 2.9 V6 with about 200,000 miles. I think the real problem there was a thermostat that was stuck open. In every other case, the engines were spotless inside.
 
I agree with the condensation theory. Not to rehash and old issue, but a thermostat will warm up quicker and start the vaporizing. 180* is best, but may be too much for marginal cooling systems, then go to 160* IMHO. Or best of all, just take long drives and tell your other it is not your choice, you just have to do it save the engine.
 
Thankyou all for your ideas ,the car has sat for long periods since coming from the states ,its had 1 oil change with the last Aussie owner ,he used Penrite sae40 Shelesley medium ,optimised Zinc ,the car wouldnt have done 200 miles in 4 years ,what grade oil is recommended ?,,,, ,Fordbarn is so good for information like this,,,thanks again,, Rod,,
 
roddyb34 said:
,what grade oil is recommended ?,,,,
Click to expand...

Careful with that question it can be dangerous.

In real life any automotive/diesel oil can be used.

Once the posts start you will find every brand, every weight (single and multi), detergent and non detergent, synthetic. They all will show up.

The only fact that everyone will agree on is that todays oil is Far, Far, Far, better then what was available in Model A times.
 
Worn rings permitting blowby in an crankcase without crossflow ventilation will cause the observed "creamy oil". The majority of exhaust gas is a mix of H2O and CO2 with a much smaller amount of carbon monoxide and other compounds. This is the major source of the crankcase water that causes the oil emulsion observed. The more water vapor introduced into the crankcase, the hotter and longer the engine needs to run to keep the oil free of water.

I suggest a cylinder leakdown test, different than a 'compression check'. That will give you a good picture of the severity of blowby. Adding a road draft tube would not help in this situation. A PCV system may, but if the rings are poor, fixing the cause of the problem is the real solution.
 
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