Crankshaft pulley problem?

aermotor

Well-known member
I installed a new 1 piece crankshaft pulley and new front motor mount yolk. The pulley has a slight scrub mark from touching the motor mount yolk on the 3 spokes. I seem to have had clearance on installation and I noticed no scrubing when turning the engine over for timing (could have been between spokes on installation). After running and a short drive around the block (sans fenders and hood) I noticed the marks. Sorry, no pics and I will have to go back through receipts to see where the parts came from. Being a solid mount between the motor mount yolk and pulley I am confused as to what is happening.

John
 
Do you have the OEM motor mounts on the rear of motor?

One other question was crank pulley slid all the way on the crank?
 
Aermotor,
Try this: Loosen the yoke to timing cover bolts, with a block of wood, jack up the front of the motor & re-tighten the bolts, REAL TIGHT. Paint over the scuff marks & see if it still touches when you fire it up.
Bill W.
 
I have seen this a couple times over the past 4-5 years. I block up the motor, remove the yoke and remove a small amount from the yoke with a small grinder. Blend out to the adjoining surfaces, repaint and it is difficult to see that the yoke is modified.
Good Day!
 
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I didn't have the slinger off - can it come out with the crank gear or is it too big for the hole? By the L.A. drawing on 1-135 it looks too big so if it's not there someone else forgot it. If it is there I need to find clearance some where else. What is the easiest way to see if it is there?

John
 
Inspect for slinger: You could take the side timing cover off and with a flashlight look for it in front of the metal timing gear. I think you should be able to see the edge of it from this vantage. If it is missing, you will need to remove the pan and front timing cover to install. I doubt the slinger is missing.
Other possible causes:
Did you install the front engine support bushing? Or is this bushing seated in the crossmember hole? if not, the yoke stud could be forward of center in the hole through the front crossmember. This would move the bottom of the yoke towards the pulley.
Your rear motor mounts could be tired and allowing the engine to rest further back than it should be and this will also change the angle of the yoke contributing to lack of clearance to the pulley.
I repeat, from Post #5 above, I have seen this a number of times over the past 4-5 years. Referring to my cases of the same problem: After checking all of the above and they were all correct, I assumed the design of the spokes on the pulley was not correct. I did change my pulley supplier and since then have not had a problem. If you check all of the areas mentioned and find them okay, modify what you are working with. Remove the yoke and grind or die grind a little metal from the yoke where rubbing to provide the clearance you need. It is not good to end up with deep grooves in the pulley spokes as these lines will weaken the pulley to the point it could fail.
With little to no clearance between the pulley and the front yoke, you may find the pulley will make contact with the yoke during a hard brake. Please be aware that even though you have made clearance by allowing the pulley to strike the yoke, the grooves you see now will likely increase in depth after some road time. I don't need to go into how I know this do I?
FWIW: I think the design of the spokes on some reproduction pulleys is the issue.
Good Day!
 
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Thanks guys,
Checked all the above suggestions and the pulley again. One spoke does not touch, second spoke scrubed the paint on one side to approx. 015"deep on the other side and the third spoke approx. .020" deep on the leading side and .035" deep on the trailing side. Using a calibrated stick I could not detect any out of round on the pulley or wobble. The spokes do wobble looking at them when running so I guess a bad casting. I do have some crankshaft end play but does not indicate any "walking" for and aft with the same stick measurement. How much is too much? Since the pulley has provided it's own clearance do I change it or not?
John
 
Thanks guys,
Checked all the above suggestions and the pulley again. One spoke does not touch, second spoke scrubed the paint on one side to approx. 015"deep on the other side and the third spoke approx. .020" deep on the leading side and .035" deep on the trailing side. Using a calibrated stick I could not detect any out of round on the pulley or wobble. The spokes do wobble looking at them when running so I guess a bad casting. I do have some crankshaft end play but does not indicate any "walking" for and aft with the same stick measurement. How much is too much? Since the pulley has provided it's own clearance do I change it or not?
John

.006 is the most I would want. There are a lot of A.s with a .125 or more. They will be leaking oil out the rear main. Some say .012 is ok but not me.
 
I have seen this a couple time over the past 4-5 years. I block up the motor, remove the yoke and remove a small amount from the yoke with a small grinder. Blend out to the adjoining surfaces, repaint and it is difficult to see that the yoke is modified.
Good Day!


I agree,

I recently ran into this with a new reproduction pulley and I did the same thing to solve the problem.

Chris W.
 
I have about the same problem,I bought a new yoke from Snyder's . the yoke is about 1 in. away from bolting up to the 2 front hole mounts, the rear mounts and lines up good.
 
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