Crankshaft "Clean Out" plugs

This is how I do it. Drill and tap a 3/8 course thread in the plug. Use a slide hammer with a 3/8 bolt in the end and screw it into the plug and clunk it out. On the Ford crank with the smaller plugs just drill and tap a 5/6 thread in the plug. Walt
 
Walt Dupont recently gave us a "seminar" on these cleanout plugs. He drills and taps them then uses a slide puller to remove the plug. The Ford plugs are smaller than the Mercury plug. Then, after cleaning the oil channels drive in new Merc plugs. Maybe Walt will chime in to a source..
John
 
Obviously these replies are coming in fast, but...

Sanborn, I'm not the expert here, but I was witness to Walt Dupont giving a V8 oiling seminar that I captured and put on youtube. Google search for 'Walt Dupont Oiling' and you'll find three videos. The end of the second and the beginning of the third cover some of your question. Again I'm not the crank/engine guy, but I hope this helps.

Thread here, with links to the videos, might help some also, but it spirals into a discussion mentioning (gasp) SBC's.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82438&highlight=dupont+oiling

-VT/Jeff
 
Cheap insurance, tap the holes and install hex drive pipe plugs on
assembly, ESPECIALLY if you are going to use a high volume oil pump.
 
Pete, I've always wondered about any balance issues using the pipe plugs. Any insight you'd like to share about that?
 
The pipe plugs are a couple of grams heavier.
Balancing is the last thing you do so it doesn't matter what you use.
You make up the bob weights to what you use.
 
Russ/40 said:
Pete, I've always wondered about any balance issues using the pipe plugs. Any insight you'd like to share about that?
Click to expand...

The amount is negligible, it will have no effect on the unit!

The plugs can be removed simply by "punching" an awl hole through the plugs and use a "dent-puller" with a screw mounted in the end! Works every time, takes about 10 minutes to remove all four.

We use 3/8"-NPT x. 360" deep, 8-grams, and I believe that's less than the OEM Merc pressed ones?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. The Merc cranks with the larger plugs are ready to tap, not necessary to drill first! The Fords with the smaller plugs we drill & tap.
 
Sanborn, use a 14mm sparkplug tap to cut some threads into the ID of the crankshaft plugs and screw a slide hammer into those threads. No drilling, no muss, no fuss. For several years I even reused the removed plugs but now get new Dorman's.

Are you going to be running your dragster at Bowling Green this week? If so I'll try to stop by and say "howdy".
 
JWL said:
Sanborn, use a 14mm sparkplug tap to cut some threads into the ID of the crankshaft plugs and screw a slide hammer into those threads. No drilling, no muss, no fuss. For several years I even reused the removed plugs but now get new Dorman's.

Are you going to be running your dragster at Bowling Green this week? If so I'll try to stop by and say "howdy".
Click to expand...
JWL. That's a good idea, never thought of that. Of course that just with the Merc 5/8 plugs. You've probably come up with an idea for the Ford 3/8 plugs. Walt
 
Russ/40 said:
Aluminum or Iron plugs?
Click to expand...

The aluminum plugs weigh around 3 grams (nominal), it's just not cost effective from a business standpoint due to the prices.

Other than that fact there's no real reason you couldn't use them however.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. The aluminum plugs average 2.00/ea give or take, the steel's are just pennies!
 
Yes, we will be at the "Hot Rod Reunion" this weekend. By all means, please stop by and say hello. And that same offer is for everyone at the Ford Barn!

Also, I bought a set of Wilson & Woods heads for my engine. I am impressed with some features. I would like to show them to you.
 
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I always use aluminum pipe plugs in the cranks that I change to "screw-in". To think that $8 worth of pipe plugs will make a $1700 crank assembly unobtainable calls into question the thought processes.

The SCAT cranks can be converted to 1/2" pipe, aluminum plugs, to help reduce throw weight.
 
I got the plugs out-----thanks for the info. The crank was totally packed with dried "goo". I really don't see how any oil could get through the crank to the rod bearings.

Thanks for the advice!
 
Do I understand correctly that screw in plugs were used in 8BA cranks? (2 hole throw, Ford)
If so are they NPT ? (1/8th)
Who sells steel Allen type plugs?
 
My one 4" cranks that I done had to tapped for the screw in plugs. Your local auto supply or hardware store will have the plugs once you know what they are tapped to ...
 
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