Cranking probs on a 272

Tom in TN

Tom in TN

Senior Member
Vitals: 1955 Town Sedan. 69000 miles 272 engine has been overhauled.
6volt. Pos ground, Optima red top 6v battery.
Resting battery voltage= 6.3v
Engine running- charging voltage= 6.82v
Cables are tight- connections are good.

Symptoms: Motor is getting harder and harder to get to turn over fast enough to fire up. Turn key to start and it might roll over (at a crawl), or it might just light the Oil and Gen idiot lights up and nothing else happen.
This has been a progressive condition over the past few months and it will now just barely turn over (sometime)- EVEN WITH A 12V BOOST.
When it would start, it runs like a dream, so no issues there.

The starter has only been out of the car for the overhaul- never any trouble issues..but..does this smell like a starter problem?
Any questions or details I missed let me know.
 
I’d be inclined to look at the starter solenoid and the ignition switch. If the Gen light comes on, the run position should be good. It will go off when you move it to start. Low voltage to the solenoid, failing coil or mechanical hang ups in the solenoid, or bad contacts in the solenoid. A remote start switch from the battery to the starter solenoid contact will isolate the ign switch. Use caution doing that if the key is on in the run position.

Last year I went thru a low voltage problem. Any individual connection was ok, but when they all added up it didn’t work. Ended up cleaning everything before the problem was solved. And that was 12volts, 6 is less forgiving typically. But since a 12 jump doesn’t cure it, I’d bet on the solenoid. Easier to get to than the starter.
 
Had a problem just like that. Turned out the starter stud was loose, not the cable to stud but the stud to the body of the starter. Tightened it and all was good!
 
You need (IMO) to perform a VOLTAGE DROP TEST / STARTER DRAW TEST.

Description and method should be in your WSM.

You will wear yourself out with " it might be this and I once ..."

EDIT -

PM From Tom -

Tom in TN said:
...not opposed to doing it, but What the heck is a WSM, where the 'how-to' is supposed to be hiding?
Click to expand...

WSM - WORKSHOP MANUAL (1955 FORD). It will have the procedure(s) and needed specs.

A 6V SYSTEM can be a bear. I bought a 55 BIRD years ago and got rid of it just for that. A person with good sense would have converted it to 12V but this was back in the MUSCLE CAR DAYS and the BIRD just wasn't doing it for me. I then acquired a 64 FALCON SPRINT and started back on the way to STREET RESPECTABILITY.

*****

- WARNING -​


Dielectric Grease Caution -

DO NOT use dielectric electrical grease to keep battery posts free of corrosion, as dielectric grease is an insulator and has a low melting point. When dielectric grease melts (caused by the heat generated as the current passes thru the posts) it changes into a liquid form and runs down between the battery post and the cable clamp. All will be well until you shut off the engine and everything cools down.

When you go back to restart your car the battery will appear to be dead. In reality the current from the battery is not being allowed to pass thru to the battery cables. To correct the problem remove and clean both the cable ends and the battery posts with emery paper or a battery terminal cleaner tool and reinstall. That should restore your battery connection.
Click to expand...

SOURCE - https://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/tech_tips_batterys.php
 
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Hello Could be as Kultulz mention above. If starter bushing wear it causes a drag which causes problems like you have. A 12 volt jump may not cure problem. 55 years ago I had a YB with Jahns 5/8 inch defector head pistons. Would not turn over fast enought to start. Put a 12 V battery with 6V starter solved problem.
 
I have not put anything on battery post connections except the old fiber wheel bearing grease that doesn't seem to be sold anymore. I had folks say not to do that but it worked for me back in the day. Haven't done it in a while. I have a Lincoln that uses a spade type connector on the starter that began losing connection, probably because of the harsh environment where it lives. I bought some NyoGel760G Dielectric Synthetic grease and it has fixed it so far. Been a year or so. Don't know anything about it except it is working for me. Battery cables are one of those things that just require some regular maintenance. Saving the cables from corrosion is the idea, of course.
 
WalMart sells some stuff in a non-aerosol spray bottle that will prevent corrosion on battery terminals. It comes with the felt washers that go around the battery posts under the cable ends.
 
cos said:
If starter bushing wear it causes a drag which causes problems like you have. A 12 volt jump may not cure problem.
Click to expand...

There you go, may be as simple as bushings and brushes but the complete system has to be correctly diagnosed (incl correct cable(s) sizing and grounds) -

https://www.ctci.org/battery-cables/

- as who knows what the car has been through since 1955.

- JUST SAY NO TO BRAIDED GROUND CABLES -

IMG_7882.JPG.cb39f310fef93588f8818e7d7de8cbf1.jpg

Lamar Wadsworth said:
WalMart sells some stuff in a non-aerosol spray bottle that will prevent corrosion on battery terminals. It comes with the felt washers that go around the battery posts under the cable ends.
Click to expand...

Exactly! PERMATEX.

THANX!

If it is found to be a defective starter motor, try to find an electrical shop nearby that can rebuild it. It you can't and have to buy a CHI-COM, save the old GEN as it will most likely be desired by a nuts-on restorer (case stampings).

REFERRING URL - https://forums.aaca.org/topic/329685-6-volt-generator-charging-system-in-question/
 
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Well, I put a new solenoid in it today and that did not change the symptoms.
NAPA has a 'remanufactured' starter available, so it would at least be rebuilt in the USA.
I think replacing the starter is my next step.
I will keep everyone posted.
 
Some years back, my '55 had hard starting problems due to the motor turning over too slow. I cleaned the commutator, put in new brushes and lubed the bronze bushings, put it back in and there was no difference.
Took it back out, laid it on the floor and hooked battery cables directly to it. It spun like a top, but just won't crank an engine.
Gave up and got a new starter. That was the cure. Never had a problem since.
I'd hate to have to price a new one now though.
 
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