Crank Pully Nut - b6319a

denns1989

denns1989

Member
Got an "8BA" Truck Engine, want to check the torque on the "Crank Pully Nut" ( appears the pully is loose), I understand the torque is 45 ~ 55 ft lbs, I read on one site it's an 1 3/8" socket, that appears incorrect as my 1 1/4" is to big & 1 1/8" is to small, I'm assuming it's 1 3/16" but before I start hunting for one I thought I would confirm, with my luck it's some special size that Ford made a tool for :-) Thanks in advance, see picture as reference to what I need socket size for.
 

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1-3/8" This nut is from an 8BA.
 

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Ahh just realized I will need a deep socket 1 3/8, the 1 1/4 I tried cleared the cogs, not the nut - duh ! My bad, thanks for confirmation, clearance to radiator is tight, so I'm going at this blind. Thanks again.
 
An update... 1 3/8" & then 1 1/4" too big, 1 3/16 is a bit sloppy but not enough that it slips, 1 1/8 to small. So I did get it to tighten up a bit with the 1 3/16, now my question is - where is this crank pully nut from ? Or is it just really, really well used ?
 

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Are you putting it on or taking it off?

if putting it on you could take it off and have a good look at it. Try the sockets on and see why they won't go on. One of mine takes a 1-1/8 socket. It might be that the 1-1/8 is right but the crank dog ears are distorted and stopping the socket. You need a good depth on the socket too.

If you take it off you can measure it with calipers or similar or try the sockets on from the other end to check if it is the ears that are causing the problem.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
Are you putting it on or taking it off?

if putting it on you could take it off and have a good look at it. Try the sockets on and see why they won't go on. One of mine takes a 1-1/8 socket. It might be that the 1-1/8 is right but the crank dog ears are distorted and stopping the socket. You need a good depth on the socket too.

If you take it off you can measure it with calipers or similar or try the sockets on from the other end to check if it is the ears that are causing the problem.

Mart.
Click to expand...
Ahh so most were 1 3/8, but some might have been 1 1/8 ! That is helpful, yes & that would make sense as the ears do seem a bit spread out - I don't have any reason to remove right now, also access is miserable, but next time the motor or rad is out I will get in there to do a deeper inspection, I was just baffled how 1 3/8 could "shrink" to 1 3/16 but still maintain a hex shape, but yes 1 1/8 with ears bent out adds up ! Thanks
 
Ok Just a follow up post to clear up some confusion for people who might search this post out for information in the future.

Thanks to VanPelts site for this info.

49-53 "8BA" should be a 7/8" bolt & washer:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/Engine-Partspics/20639-SK_boltwasherkit.jpg

Earlier styles (prior to 1949) are the "crank" type which are either the "large" (1928-1947) 1 3/8" or "small" (1939-1948) 1 1/8"

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/Engine-Partspics/6319-crankpulleybolts.jpg

So mine had the "small" 1 1/8" with bent cogs so only an 1 3/16 would fit, also it didn't have a washer so the small bolt would actually pass thru the bore of the pulley... basically the pulley was held on with the fan belts all these years while it slowly hammered the keyway out of the pulley...
 
19Fordy said:
Did 8RT or 8BA engines really come with a crank pulley nut?
Click to expand...
I know 48-50 F-1s and bigger had crank holes.
1951-'52 F trucks could have crank holes.
My '50 F1 with '51 front sheet metal had a place spotted for the crank hole but it was never drilled through or punched out.

Under the center bullet is a spot for the crank hole.
26923769827_909fefba93_z.jpgUntitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
 
I'm a bit slow on the uptake, I didn't realise this was on Ol Snoopy. Have you been able to locate a new pulley or whatever parts you need?

Mart.
 
Dennis, get one of the smaller crank nuts. It is next to impossible to get at the large one with a socket on a 32 to tighten or remove once everything is in place.

With the smaller, 1-1/8" across the flats, you can slip on a socket and then with various extensions through the crank holes, get at the nut.


Glenn
 
Mart said:
I'm a bit slow on the uptake, I didn't realise this was on Ol Snoopy. Have you been able to locate a new pulley or whatever parts you need?

Mart.
Click to expand...

Yes a friend had exactly what I needed on an old motor laying in the bush at his father in laws, it pulled off like it was just installed even though it was upside down & exposed to the elements for many, many years- got the pully, woodruff key, washer & bolt. Installed with no issues & back in business !

https://youtu.be/xGeRgxnxSac
 
Oh, some guys cut of the crank tangs too for better options. I like to stay stock as possible you have the small one myself.


Glenn
 
denns1989 said:
Yes a friend had exactly what I needed on an old motor laying in the bush at his father in laws, it pulled off like it was just installed even though it was upside down & exposed to the elements for many, many years- got the pully, woodruff key, washer & bolt. Installed with no issues & back in business !

https://youtu.be/xGeRgxnxSac
Click to expand...

Looking good!! Sounds good as well, LOL.
 
Glad you were able to fix it. Now you have said what you did I think I may have saw it on the hamb.

I've followed your journey with that car from the day you found it.
 
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