Crank Bearing Problem
- Thread starter Bill Cal.
- Start date
For me the correct way would to have the block bored to accept insert bearings another would be to have the babbit redone, some have been known to use epoxy to re install the cracked babbit, I have seen the results of using an epoxy, however it may work for some people but I have never seen long lasting results, usually the material is flaking off and coming loose from the block and caps and will continue to let go over time and wind up being brought home on a tow truck, but to each their own ,
nkaminar
Well-known member
The correct way to pull the engine and take it apart. Then bring the parts to a good machine shop that can do Babbett and have new bearings poured and line bored.
The other way to find a good cap and fit it to the crank using the yellow Timesaver. This is best done with the engine out of the car. You will want to pull the crank and inspect the Babbett in the block before just replacing the cap.
A third option is to buy a Burtz kit and run that. If you have any mechanical aptitude you can assemble the Burtz kit yourself by just flowing his well written instructions.
The other way to find a good cap and fit it to the crank using the yellow Timesaver. This is best done with the engine out of the car. You will want to pull the crank and inspect the Babbett in the block before just replacing the cap.
A third option is to buy a Burtz kit and run that. If you have any mechanical aptitude you can assemble the Burtz kit yourself by just flowing his well written instructions.
old ugly
Well-known member
open your wallet.
i think you will have to pull the engine and do the babbit.
the shop that does the babbit will tell you to have the crank checked for straight and the journals turned. they will not do the babbit unless the crank is true.
the mains are turned to be true not sized, the shop that does the babbit will line bore it, once it is poured, to match the crank.
if needed and it most likely will, i would used new rods with inserts, for this the rod journals are turned to match what ever bearing size is next.
OU
i think you will have to pull the engine and do the babbit.
the shop that does the babbit will tell you to have the crank checked for straight and the journals turned. they will not do the babbit unless the crank is true.
the mains are turned to be true not sized, the shop that does the babbit will line bore it, once it is poured, to match the crank.
if needed and it most likely will, i would used new rods with inserts, for this the rod journals are turned to match what ever bearing size is next.
OU
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
Who is counterweighting cranks these days. I had a guy a mile away that did a great job, but is no longer able or willing to do so.
Jim Brierley
Well-known member
It depends on the size of the chip that fell out. A small piece can just be left out or set back in and run as-is. Large pieces are another story, replace the cap and fit it in which is tedious, or better yet have the engine re-babbitted. Might as well have it all rebuilt while your at it.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
A lot of assumptions being made. Knowing specifically where the piece was originally located helps tremendously IMO. For example, is this piece from a thrust area or a pin area? Broken thrusts can theoretically be repaired by installing a bronze thrust washer made specifically for this, -or potentially left out just with the expectation of knowing the thrust wear will be much quicker. If the missing piece came from the pin area, then further inspection is needed to check for cracking or fatigue in other areas of the same cap.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Post a picture of the bearing and the piece that broke-off.