Cracked rear spring crossmember

LarryCa

LarryCa

Junior Member
I am working on a frame off restoration of a 37 Ford Pickup with a 49 8RT engine, 39 transmission, 40 banjo rear with hydralic brakes.
The rear spring crossmember has cracks running up from the spring bracket holes. (Note pictures)

Can these cracks be welded? (Previous owner welded a plate on top of the crossmember)

If I must replace the crossmember can the new one be bolted or welded in or must it be riveted?

Thanks Larry
 

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Done properly, the cracks can be welded but the cross member should also be reinforced especially on top and at the bottom lip where the "U" Bolt holes are.

Hot Riveting is probably best but A "New" crossmember can be bolted BUT I would also recomend some Rosette (Plug) welds to keep everything from moving.

Chris
 
I wish that I had welded, rather than replace, the rear crossmember in my Model A frame... I did weld the front crossmember, put it on end to make it a horizonal weld and did it on a ladder... Karl
 
Yes, a simple "fix" for a seasoned welder. Do not weld across the ends of any reinforcement pieces.
 
I have (because I was told you can) to either diagonal or point fish plate and it can be welded full around. It has been sucessful so far. Here the salt will get between the layers and rust grows to push the seams apart if not tight and sealed.
 
A "fishplate" on the lip of that channel(where the crack originated) is not practical nor a sound venture. Any air or liquid tight seal can be accomplished with an appropriate sealant rather than creating a stress riser.
 
YES YES and YES: JWL has it right,both times, and lets assume your piceeekup will NOT see the loads, it did in ( its day ) and how about the roads, are they paved in Madera, or can we say better than back then... ?...OLD...BILL
 
I would widen the cracks with a grinder to ensure proper penetration.
Then weld it up and forget about it.

The iron on the top is so common i guess it have a Ford Part number :-)
I would grind the weld so i could take of that piece and repair the cracks under it.
And leave the crossmember in its original state.

Since the roads are better today, and it will not see the loads it did back then.
 
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I would do as Mr42 said, but before i welded it, i would heat it with a torch to 400 degrees and keep it that temperature for 5 minutes or so to get the porosity out of it. Then weld it. If not it will probably crack again. Marv
 
Thanks Ford Barn for the information.

The crossmember will be properly welded by a seasoned welder this weekend.


Thanks Again
Larry
 
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