Cracked block

1949f1 said:
I'm definitely not wanting to tear it down to have it pressure tested if it comes to that i guess it'll have to be moth balled.
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I have a device that will allow you to pressure test the system while the engine is in the car (with the heads on). PM me if you-re interested.
 
1949f1 said:
im running stock 8CM cast iron heads. Im hoping you are right i just dont see any where else that it cracked. im waiting on napa to get a head gasket, and as soon as I get out of school today will pull a head off a spare block. Any suggestions as to how to keep the spare from rusting? i guess i could drive with only one head:p:rolleyes::D
P.S. Im sory about my inexperience with this stuff im 18 and this is also my first car.
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You could do that----watch the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkHZyjiT_wk

Bob
 
AS they say, that crack has a part number, I never bother to doanything to fix it. I do however use a steam pipe compound on the threads. You can get a tube of it at a plumbing supply house. Next I only torque to #50 ft/lbs and do this for 3 heat cycles. I've been doing this for the past 30 or 40 years, so it works. Now there maybe a better way, but I don't know it.
 
Ol' Ron said:
AS they say, that crack has a part number, I never bother to doanything to fix it. I do however use a steam pipe compound on the threads. You can get a tube of it at a plumbing supply house. Next I only torque to #50 ft/lbs and do this for 3 heat cycles. I've been doing this for the past 30 or 40 years, so it works. Now there maybe a better way, but I don't know it.
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Might add a block sealer too!
 
Thank yall for the help! The only thing that is bothering me is the fact that i dont really see where the head gasket blew. Ill let yall know how everything goes.
 
Maybe someone here lives near you and has the simple Speedway pressure test...no real teardown needed beyond taking off the head and then the pump on that side. Bolt on the 2 plates covering head and pump surface, add air, see if it holds. If so, thoroughly check out head and go get a gasket.
The problem/need for pressure is that the complex porting design can allow a crack deep within, like an exhaust passage, where it is totally beyond vision.
I agree that this is likely gasket problem, but a pressure test on the affected side would be nice.
 
Keep in mind that crack may have been there even before you overheated. Pay it know mind and proceed with the new head gasket and oil change.

Welcome to the club.
 
I'm about to do a reverse pressure test. I thought of, I'm going to pressurize the radiator with a new head on and reuse the old gasket.
 
1949f1 said:
I'm about to do a reverse pressure test. I thought of, I'm going to pressurize the radiator with a new head on and reuse the old gasket.
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I really think you should wait until Tuesday when you have new gaskets.

Also, read my reply to your PM.
 
Wait on the new gasket. Patience is something you will learn along the way. A lot of us have 40+ years playing with these oldies and are still learning the lesson of patience. It's easier to do it right than do it wrong twice..
 
The cracks between cylinders are not uncommon. The siamese exhaust ports run under those so a lot of heat can build up in those areas. As long as the cracks don't extend down through and into the exhaust ports, they won't be a problem. The only way to find out is to pressure test the block. Heads can crack or develop pin holes where the core wire goes through them in certain places. The heads can also be pressure tested. If a person has access to a surface plate or a well made level straight edge, the heads can be checked for warpage easily. Blown or leaky head gaskets are also not uncommon but are not easy to diagnose. On a flathead, it's easier to replace them as a diagnosis test. If it still overheats, then a person has to go through all the tests to find out where the problem is.

The OEM coolant temperature indicating system has two senders but only one actually registers the gauge indication (on the passenger side). The driver side sender is just a temperature sensitive switch that makes the indicator go full swing to "H" when it gets to the set temperature of the bi-metalic switch. This isn't the worlds best system but it seemed to be working OK in this case.
 
Check to be certain nothing is impeding the flow of water on that bank of cylinders. Also be sure the water pump has not lost the impellor. Remove the thermostat for a maximum water flow experiment.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
Maybe someone here lives near you and has the simple Speedway pressure test...no real teardown needed beyond taking off the head and then the pump on that side. Bolt on the 2 plates covering head and pump surface, add air, see if it holds. If so, thoroughly check out head and go get a gasket.
The problem/need for pressure is that the complex porting design can allow a crack deep within, like an exhaust passage, where it is totally beyond vision.
I agree that this is likely gasket problem, but a pressure test on the affected side would be nice.
Click to expand...

Do this.....
 
My leaks started after a short run and the rad solution was foamy and I went through lot of water. My Mechanic, suggested that before I remove the heads, I try a bottle of "IronTite". Well it seems to have worked, as I made a 100 mile trip on Sunday, with no over heating and the fluid level is still an inch above the core. Twenty Dollars well spent, even if it is a temporary fix. Byron.
 
So just wanted to give y'all an update. Put the head on, and drove the car home. In the 10 miles I drove it the heat gauge started going over 3 quarters. Of course I stopped and let it cool off. I'm planning on pulling the motor and ****** out. I'm putting new gaskets in the motor and repainting everything. How complicated is it to pull them both together?
 
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