cp's first engine startup trouble

  • Thread starter Thread starter CP
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CP

CP

Senior Member
ok, here we go.

i have gas, i have spark. no start.

new plugs
rebuilt coil by skip for 12 volts
new fuel pump (added electric w/ gauge)
crab distributor
oh yeah, 59a block (call it a 48)
three carbs strom 97's all rebuilt by charles NY
SU 359 edelbrock trip intake
powergen alt (not hooked up)
offenhauser alum heads
new water pumps, fan assembly, lines, ect...
new 12v battery
attached the vaccume from distributor to the intake. plugged the other side for the wiper motor.
ect.....

can the timing be off?

the slot in the cam allows for the crab distrib to only go on one way.

the new rotor and cap can only go on one way.

all new wires.

poured gas down center carb numerous times and i got nothing.

attached a cheapo oil pressure gauge and no oil in the clear plastic lining. I'm thinking i need to disconnect the gauge end to let the air out.

fuel pump is the glass bowl type and appears to not be pumping properly so i attache the electric fuel pump. now have plenty of gas and still no sputter.

thought i could be out of timing 180 degrees, but based upon how everything goes together, its pretty simple. there is no way to "turn" the two bolt distributor to advance ect... Im stuck, please help

Thank you, CP
 
A few things to check. . . . Have you checked the compression? Do you have spark at the plugs or at the coil? The crab type dist cap takes a slightly larger rotor than the 'rabbit ear' cap. Does your rotor match your cap? If your rebuilt fuel pump doesn't work, did you install the push rod? Got a check valve in backwards? Good luck and let us know how you're getting along.
 
CP, If this is a brand new rebuilt engine, i would be wanting to see it make oil pressure on a gauge first. Also dumping gasoline down the carb is a good way to wash down the cylinder walls, on a new engine. My guess is by dumping gas down the carb, numerous times, you flooded the plugs......Good Luck....Ed
 
do the easy stuff first is the firing order right? do you have spark at the plugs take one out and hook to a plug wire ground plug on the engine and see if the plug fires, check compression firing order is 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2, i dont know what cap you have the one with the plugins pointing up at a 45 degree angle or the one where the plugins for the wires come straight out of the cap on the side if i knew which one you have i could give you the placement of the splug wires
 
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yes, have checked compression, approx 100.
have spark at plugs
push rod is in place, fuel is getting to carbs
checked number one cylinder with my thumb. the rotor is pointing torward the correct wire.

bypassed the resistor to no help.
 
i took off the gauge at the rear of the block and poured oil in as directed by charlie NY. one problem solved. oil pressure now at 23 lbs (cranking starter only). i hope that is a good number. I took the plugs out and 3 were snapped. i torqued them per the book, but must have to calibrate my torque wrench or something. anyway. going to buy new plugs and see what happens.
 
You may decline to do this but for others reading and preparing to start a fresh engine, they may consider it. I put a 3 deuce manifold on mine but blocked off the outer two. I've been running it during break-in with just the one carb now for about 500 miles. One could also just do break in with a stock manifold being as how intake gaskets are re-usable. Also, after break in, you may be wanting to double check your valve lash if you are running Johnson's so the intake will probably be coming off anyway.

Another thing I did before the first start was pull the plugs and spun it to get initial oil pressure which on mine got up to around 20 pounds.
 
toss the torque wrench, only needed for heads rods and mains, install the plugs with a 3/8" rachet and tighten down to just good and snug, use a spark plug socket with the rubbeer insert to keep the plug straight in the socket
 
(1)Turn it over with your thumb again ,mark were you think TDC is on the pulley .Bend up a bit of wire such as a bronze welding wire ,with the wire sitting on the piston . turn the crank over till the piston comes to the top compare this with your mark on the pully . The right set of points facing the front should be just opened at TDC (2).Use a 6 &12 Volt to 18 volt to start
 
i made some progress.

took off oil pressure gauge and filled the hole with oil. that have me oil pressure (temporarily). however. now i lost it again. at cranking speed, no pressure. any ideas?

at one point, i realized i did not put a gasket on the oil filter canister.....oh what a mess. i know i had oil pressure at that point.

cleaned the points with some fine emery cloth. and got the engine to fire for 10 to 15 seconds. i need some "good" wires, because the ones i bought are pcs of crap. i think the spark is not hot enough, need a better wire.

at least i got something today....sounded awsome with just the exhaust manifolds on.

seamed to run out of fuel so i think my fuel pump (new) is also a pc of crap.

connected an elec fuel pump but i dont like the idea. my garage looks like an accident waiting to happen.

looking for a new set of wires, maybe some new points, fuel pump, and maybe a safer gas can system.

very exciting. alot more promising than yesterday.
 
36tbird said:
You may decline to do this but for others reading and preparing to start a fresh engine, they may consider it. I put a 3 deuce manifold on mine but blocked off the outer two. I've been running it during break-in with just the one carb now for about 500 miles. One could also just do break in with a stock manifold being as how intake gaskets are re-usable. Also, after break in, you may be wanting to double check your valve lash if you are running Johnson's so the intake will probably be coming off anyway.

Another thing I did before the first start was pull the plugs and spun it to get initial oil pressure which on mine got up to around 20 pounds.
Click to expand...
I totally agree with this procedure. I always have a known good carb and distributor on hand to start a new engine. Break the engine in on one carb and then start scewing around with the 3 2's. I'm sure Charlie's carbs are good, but getting them synced and getting the linkage right is a pain in the rear.
 
i put on a new coil, and it fired up in 2 seconds and idles nice. so excited! things are on the up and up. thanks to u all.
 
bye the way, her name came to me today (about an hour ago. EMILY. So i hope my wife understands. I don't know any EMILY's , but I do now. As long as i can keep from saying her name in my sleep, i should be ok.......:)
 
Glad Emily got over her crankyness and came around. Few things in life sound better than the first fire up 'specially after all your troubles.
So, at one point, I ran 3 carbs (97s). I was always playing with them with the syncro, adusting, trying different vacuums, timing, ect. Then I changed to a duece carb manifold, looked great. Again, carb adjustment was a weekly thing, poor old engine never DID run right. After about a year of this I took off that beauty of an aluminum manifold, painted my old ORIGINAL, single manifold with high-temp aluminum paint and installed it with the original, vacuum advance dizzy and Ford carburetor.
I've never looked back. Car always starts with the first bump of the button, no stumble, revs out beautifully. It aint no race car, but I've had it up over some of Colorados 12000 mountain passes and she just purrs.
The neighbor' Chevy, with his old six stays perennially, where it belongs--in the rear view mirror. Life is good. I keep telling him, "you coulda hada V-8!...slim
gunnisoncarshow07008.jpg
 
CP,

I just started a 221 3 days ago after a 6 month rebuild so I know the feeling when she ignites and runs smooth. Now I am thinking of selling her and getting a Mitchell for my 46.
John
 
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