Cowl Lites

[rfitzpatrick]

I'm restoring pair of cowl lites -- found they have a two element socket. So were there bright/dim cowl lites as I think I have, or, did someone swap out a single for duels?
TKS

 

[Ayers1]

I haven't seen a low and high for cowl lights. Most that were set up with a 2 element bulb were set up as signal lights. I assume that's what you have.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

I assume that's what you have.[/QUOTE]


I agree. It's that I forget that parts might get modified long before I began this hobby. Think everything I see is original.
TKS

 

[JayJay]

You might look at the wires that come from the two-element socket to see if they are the original cloth-covered. The conversion kits I've seen (and used) have modern plastic-insulated wires for the pigtails. Attached photo is from the conversion kit that Snyders currently sells.

 

[Ayers1]

Some of the modifications were done when these cars were just a few years old so it's not always easy to tell. I'm grateful for a place like this to be able to ask and find out for sure!

 

[31deluxe]

Maybe someone can answer my wiring question while we are on cowl light wiring subject


I have a new wiring harness with a bullet end for the cowl lights


The cowl light connector has a brass(?) piece with the 2 cowl light wires screwed down into it.


Do I cut the bullet end and screw down all three wires into the brass connector?

 

[JayJay]

The original pigtail from the cowl lamp bulb wire was also a bullet end. You snake the pigtail wire through the cowl light arm and connect it to the wiring harness inside the cowl using a torpedo connector. I'm having difficulty imagining what it you describe, unless you are talking about the socket inside the lamp. You might post a picture. An exposed brass plate would be a direct path from hot to ground unless it was wrapped with tape.

The bullet wire ends (which are soldered onto the wires) are available from all the vendors, like these from Snyders. You use this type of connector to tie two bullet-ended wires together.

 

[31deluxe]

If you are replying to my question about the cowl light connector ,maybe my wording was a little confusing. This is the connector I was referring to. currently there are 2 wires from the cowl lights screwed down into the brass connector .. A bullet connector from the main wiring harness will not secure ley connect to the brass inside the connector.

 

[JayJay]

That is the connector that attaches the cowl light harness from inside the cowl to the main wiring harness. It installs in the frame member down in front of the steering box, and then the cowl light harness runs up to inside the cowl. The wire from the main harness inserts from one end of the brass piece, the wire from the cowl light harness inserts from the other end, and you connect them by tightening the screw. There should only be one wire from the cowl light harness, it splits into two up inside the cowl. If you have two wires coming down from the cowl then I don't believe that's an original wiring job. This connector does not go inside the cowl.

If you want to use this connector then you will have to remove the bullet connector to expose bare wire. Alternatively, you could install a bullet connector on the other wire and use a torpedo connector.

 

[Badpuppy]

All original cowl lamps have single filament bulbs, one wire. The connector you have clips to the frame on early models, 28-29. It connects a wire from the lighting switch to the longer single wire of the cowl harness. The other long double wire runs below the dash to the right side. There are three support clips attached inside the firewall, two at each side and one at the lower right firewall junction box screw. The early side clips help support the kick panels, later ones do not.
Later models use a bullet connector from the lighting switch to the cowl harness, supported on the left frame with a single frame clip.