Counterweighted Model T Crank

H

HenryJ

Junior Member
I have what is supposed to be one. There are 4 counterweights that bolt together on it. Does this sound correct? I will post a picture later today.
 
Lang's part no. 3030CW $127.50 for the set. (New parts)

There seem to be more arguments against these than for them if you Google the topic.
 
I've heard bad things too on those bolt-on weights....about them coming apart and causing some real damage, but I have no experience with them.

If I was gonna go with a counter balanced crank...I would go for the SCAT stroker crank, rods and main caps. :D
 
HenryJ said:
I have what is supposed to be one. There are 4 counterweights that bolt together on it. Does this sound correct? I will post a picture later today.
Click to expand...

I bought a set from Langs a few years back for well under a hundred dollars. I took a lot of nasty flak on this forum back then from some very negative members who seemed to take it personally that I would bolt these abominations to a sacred Model T crank. Years and miles have passed with no negative effects, broken crankshafts or holes in the block. They seem safe enough if properly installed.
 
I had a set on one engine I rebuilt. Everything was spotlessly clean and I floated a little braze around them. They never flew off.
 
We have put on 75, to 100 sets, the 5th set we put on came loose, just so you could hear them slide, back, an forth about 1/2 inch. They come with 5 grade bolts, we went to 8 grade bolts, no more coming loose. They really take out the Model T Buck, from low, to High. I would never run a car without them, if I was using a T Crank. You have to grind the rods, fit the Dunns, and then grind the mains, rear flange, and front pully, and seal area. Also use a 4 dip Pan. Herm.
 
MrModelT said:
I've heard bad things too on those bolt-on weights....about them coming apart and causing some real damage, but I have no experience with them.

If I was gonna go with a counter balanced crank...I would go for the SCAT stroker crank, rods and main caps. :D
Click to expand...

As a model A and early V8 guy, I don't know much about model T's but they still seem fascinating. I was unaware that you could stroke a T engine. Can someone tell me what the standard bore and stroke of the T engine is and what it can be stroked to? Thanks!
 
Seth Swoboda said:
As a model A and early V8 guy, I don't know much about model T's but they still seem fascinating. I was unaware that you could stroke a T engine. Can someone tell me what the standard bore and stroke of the T engine is and what it can be stroked to? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Bore==3 3/4

Stroke===4"

Stroked To===??? Never don it, or ever heard. Race Boys will tell you

Herm.
 
Stroked to whatever a model A is if you heat & press some outward dents in the oil pan for clearance for the 'rods. Or so i have read in the internet
 
Seth Swoboda said:
As a model A and early V8 guy, I don't know much about model T's but they still seem fascinating. I was unaware that you could stroke a T engine. Can someone tell me what the standard bore and stroke of the T engine is and what it can be stroked to? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Kohnke Rebabbitting said:
Bore==3 3/4

Stroke===4"

Stroked To===??? Never don it, or ever heard. Race Boys will tell you

Herm.
Click to expand...

The SCAT Stroker cranks increase the stroke to 4.25" and utilize 1.4985" rod journals and 1.590" main journals.
 
Layden B said:
While very rarely done it is possible to regrind a Model A crank to 4 3/8" stroke and use smaller journal rods.
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Acctually it's not as rare as one might think, just rather spendy. The A cranks must be cut down to fit the T block, the main journals in the block have to be bored to accept the larger crank journals, the Model A rods have to adapted to bolt up to the Model T pistons and need to be shortened down to the Model T stroke. Other popular crank swaps in the period were '27 - '28 Chevrolet and Wills St.Claire V8.
 
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