Counter weight cranks

I would prefer a new crank made from new materials over a 80 year old fatigued metal part that has had welding on it to further complicate its strength. Model A cranks have had a hell of a lot of twist applied to them over the years.
 
Great discussion with all of the different points of view! I will tell of my experiences with counterweighted crankshafts. I have a modified flat head "A" engine and when I first built it it ran well but I decided to redline it at 4000 RPM's That was when the first crank broke. I had another "A" crank counter balanced and drilled And after a few runs I pulled it down to change pistons because "those in the know" said the Silvolite pistons I had in it wouldn't stand the stress. When I was reassembling the engine I had a runnout problem with the crank. Took it to Taylor's for a mag test and it was badly cracked. I had a partially ground "B" crank that we then finished grinding the mains to "A" size inserts and the rod throws ground offset, welded on couterweights, drilled it, and installed "Skokie" connecting rods. Also install a SBC dampner supplied by Taylor's We drive the car hard and put a lot of stress on the crank. This year we put 3.90's in the quick change and the car went 82+MPH at Antique Nationals and it ran 8.8 at the 66 hillclimb. At the hill climb we ran 5.30's and started in second gear. I mean, just wind it up and drop the clutch. This with a 16 Lb. Al. flywheel. I have read all of the comments over the years and thought some one might gain a little insight from my personal experience and some will probably get upset and say I'm on the wrong site but so be it, I'm here!
 
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