counter shaft leakage

flathead4dr

Senior Member
I have leaky counter shafts and/or low-reverse idler shafts leaking on two different transmissions. Does anyone have and easy fix for this with ****** in car ?? Thanks, bill :)
 
I assemble the trans dry, push the shaft one direction. Put a bit of silicone in the case where the shaft will be. Put a bit on the other end of the shaft that is sticking out. Then push the shaft the other way and repeat the process... Now center the shaft, fill the hole where the pin goes through with silicone and push the pin through that... In a trans that was in the car I would drain the oil and clean the afore mentioned surface with alcohol as a precursor... No leaks for me htis way... Ahhh but I remember buying a replacement shaft from a popular suplier that was .001 smaller than the one that came out, not good! ... Karl
 
I have machined a groove in each end of the counter shaft and the outside end of the idler shaft (with very careful measurement) and then fitted "O" rings to seal the ends.
 
Thanks for the advice. Today, on one of my leaky cars, that it was in fact the long retaining pin that was leaking. Hopefully , after a good cleaning and an application of akkkupucky it will be acceptable. .....then the next car ! I'll let ya'll know how things turn out. bill
 
Those shafts after market are sometimes .002 under size.should be + .ooo - .0005 think they get mixed up with metric.
 
The original oem shafts were a nice snug fit in the case. Some of the aftermarket shafts are several thous smaller in diameter. We finally started having our own countershafts made....they are of the correct 0.7500" stock in final finished form. The previous advice on using sealer in the countershaft pin hole is also good advice. We've been doing that for awhile now. The rear of the case has to be REAL clean for the sealer to work. Our cases are oven baked and bead blasted so I know the casting is clean. I still use brake cleaner on the back surface plus a q-tip in the lockpin hole. RTV goes on the pin (and some in the lockpin hole) just before installing the pin. We let those set overnight before putting the cotter pin. That plus a smear of RTV over the ends of the countershafts does a nice job a sealing things up.
 
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