Correct spark plug gap

My Early 30 Coupe engine has a counterbalanced crankshaft, insert main and rod bearings, modern stainless valves, lightened flywheel, full flow oil filter, Snyder 5.4 high compression head, and B grind camshaft; I gap my plugs at .30, run a stock distributor with points set at .20, run a stock Zenith-1 carburetor which I rebuilt. Because of the B ground camshaft I retarded the distributor timing slightly. When the engine is warm I close off the GAV. There are times I do not start the engine for 2 or 3 months, have had no problems. By the way our gasoline, 87 octane, contains gasohol. I have had no problems. Because of the additional horsepower I installed 3.54 gears in the rear differential. The coupe runs like a scalded cat.

Ron
 
I agree with the idle jet thing. The idle jet is very very small and they do plug up.
They just unscrew from the side of the carb. Hold them up to the light and see if you
can see light thru them.
Sometimes you have to clean them several times before they quit picking up junk
if it has be sitting. (junk in the tank)
I once saw a shop replace an engine because of a plugged weber idle jet,
 
If your Weber doesn't respond to the idle mixture screw, then you either have an air leak or the low speed fuel passage is gummed. Could be both. Just a thought.
The micro fuel inlet filter could also be prob.
 
"Because of the B ground camshaft I retarded the distributor timing slightly. "

I see that's what Ron said, but I was thinking he retarded the spark due to the higher compression head needing less advance.
 
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