Copper Spray Gasket Material

Bob Bidonde

Bob Bidonde

Well-known member
Is it necessary to use copper spray gasket material when installing a head gasket? I have been using it on copper head gaskets, but I cannot say it makes a difference / has value. It does not stop the infamous burn thru between Cylinders 3 & 4. It will ooze-out along the gasket edge. It was not used in Model "A" production. Why am I challenging the use of copper spray gasket material? Because its price is too high in my opinion. Your thoughts?
 
It won't stop the burn thru because the gasket is too narrow there. Only the gasket makers can fix that really. The spray just keeps it from moving around I think-well that is what I have heard at least.

Mike
 
I still use silver aluminum pigment rattle can paint. Copper coat is specific for that purpose but it's basically just copper pigment paint. Paint is relatively affective as an extra sealing element but a lot depends on the deck and head surface condition. Sealing a warped head is hit or miss.
 
I use it, but probably not for the reason some other people do. I use it because it sorta "glues" the gasket in place. I want the copper part of the gasket to seal against the block deck and the head. Any expansion/contraction that happens with heat and cooling cycles, I want the squishy stuff in the middle of the gasket to handle that, I do NOT want the copper "sliding" on the cast block deck or the head as things move around. Copper is stretchy, but only so many times before it fractures. In my experience, copper head gaskets last longer when I use the spray.
 
I use it on graphite gaskets Best 509G and have not had a leak, even between 2/3. It’s a pain in the neck to remove the gasket but I’m convinced it makes a better seal.
 
I've gone exclusively to the graphite gaskets without copper coat spray and have had zero negative issues.
I did find that when I was using the copper coat spray on the copper clad gaskets there was always some squish out. To alleviate that problem I was very careful to only spray two very light coats of it allowing it to get very tacky between the two coats and after the application of second coat. Plus I sprayed the coating angled from inside the gasket to keep the outer edge free of the coating.
Still there was always some squish out and I learned to leave that alone for a week or so allowing it to dry fully. After that the beads of it were easily scraped off with a sharp object.
Trying to remove it while wet guaranteed a smeared mess of sealant on the engine.
 
rotorwrench said:
I still use silver aluminum pigment rattle can paint. Copper coat is specific for that purpose but it's basically just copper pigment paint. Paint is relatively affective as an extra sealing element but a lot depends on the deck and head surface condition. Sealing a warped head is hit or miss.
Click to expand...
I use aluminum paint too, it dries and acts like glue. Copper Coat doesn't dry and lets the gasket slip around, in spite of what art deco says. Spray a light coat of paint on both sides of the gasket, let dry, then spray a heavier coat on and let it get tacky, then bolt the head down and torque it. Start the engine and let warm up, then re-torque to 55 lbs. Torque again after a short drive, and again 2 or 3 times after driving for longer times.
The Best 509G is a graphite (?) gasket and doesn't require as much torqueing, but is a bear to clean off when the head is pulled for some reason. It is used by many racers. Good luck and have fun.
 
When new at the Ford plant the block and head were flat. No gasket sealer was needed and the copper clad gaskets were good quality and worked well. Fast forward to 2026. The Best graphite gasket works better than the copper clad gaskets. I use the copper spray in addition. I let it set up a while before installing the gasket. I found this combination has worked the best for me.
 
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