Copper Gooseneck gasket

brum1

brum1

Well-known member
Received a copper goose neck gasket, did not know they existed. Has anyone had any luck with these?? Manufacturer of goose neck recommends thin paper gasket to avoid cracking. (I have read this many times)

Any experience with the use of the copper gasket?
 
Copper gaskets are tricky, as you know. Placing a Paper match stick to the outside of both head studs before tightening minimizes breakage. In May of 29, reinforcing ribs were added to the stud holes, and in March of 31 the height of the reinforcing ribs was raised from 1/4" to 11/16". The copper gasket was used all four year of production. I've often wondered what the assembly technique at Dearborn was to avoid breaking goosenecks when they were new?
 
Tricky at best. Using Match sticks works. I have a brand new broken goose neck hanging on the garage wall as a reminder. Good luck.
 
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I have always used the copper goose neck gasket. However, I do not tighten it to full torque...Just enough that there is no leakage. (knock on wood)

Pluck
 
I think that the copper clad gaskets were originally used . I used copper clad goose neck gaskets for years with no problem . The only times that I broke a goose neck was when I used the paper gasket . The last BF head that I bought , it was recommended not to use any gasket at all . . I just used a thin but uniform coat of gasket sealer and it has worked well for me .
 
Just yesterday I used the thin paper gasket with the Permatex red gooey stuff and I used the paper match sticks as the instructions that came with my Bratton's gooseneck with tapped hole for temperature gauge said to do and was foolproof. Took it to 55lbs as the other head studs. Wonder if anyone has ever made up a list of Henry's not so better idea as these two studs that double as very long head studs and gooseneck fasteners.I always thought number one on the list should be the drilled through holes on the banjo rear to allow leakage on everyhole or at least half of them.
 
37 Coupe said:
Just yesterday I used the thin paper gasket with the Permatex red gooey stuff and I used the paper match sticks as the instructions that came with my Bratton's gooseneck with tapped hole for temperature gauge said to do and was foolproof. Took it to 55lbs as the other head studs. Wonder if anyone has ever made up a list of Henry's not so better idea as these two studs that double as very long head studs and gooseneck fasteners.I always thought number one on the list should be the drilled through holes on the banjo rear to allow leakage on everyhole or at least half of them.
Click to expand...

That would be a whole new thread and I would fill a page.
 
I make my own from sheet copper and anneal. lite coat of ultrablack sealer on both sides . dozens of engines and haven't broken one since....
 
Purdy Swoft said:
I think that the copper clad gaskets were originally used . I used copper clad goose neck gaskets for years with no problem . The only times that I broke a goose neck was when I used the paper gasket . The last BF head that I bought , it was recommended not to use any gasket at all . . I just used a thin but uniform coat of gasket sealer and it has worked well for me .
Click to expand...

Likewise, I've never had a problem with copper gaskets. It's the thick paper gasket that compresses more at the stud that breaks the water outlet. Yes, no gasket with a sealer would be better than paper even with the matches.
 
Sorry for my question:

What part on the Model A is a "Gooseneck"? "Goose" = big fat bird. "Neck" = between head and body.



???
 
I usually call it the water outlet , sometimes upper water outlet . There is a water inlet on the drivers side of the engine .
 
Thank you Purdy,


ah, this one ...
 

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