Cooling System Problem

Ray A from PA

Ray A from PA

Senior Member
After installing a temperature gauge with drilled water outlet to my cooling system that has a 160 degree thermostat and setting the anti-freeze to -25. The gauge reads 190 degrees or right on the danger range after driving warm up. Prior to installation, there was a small seep at bottom of radiator that was corrected by a small can of Bars Stop Leak.
Do all indications point to a possible new radiator? Do the heavy duty radiators with 8 fins per inch and 95 tubes fit well as a replacement?
 

Attachments

  • 1929 Model A @ 004.jpg
    1929 Model A @ 004.jpg
    98.4 KB · Views: 49
the radiator guy I use is very familiar with antique cars and is strongly opposed to stop leaks. He says it clogs the radiator. In my experience, overheating is usually a radiator problem. I would take your radiator to a radiator shop experienced with Model A's, and get their opinion. Possibly just boiling or rodding it out and soldering the leak will improve it. Every single repro and re-cored radiator I have installed messed up the hood alignment. The repairmen cannot seem to get the radiator shell side straps and flanges correct when they re core them. Usually correcting the alignment is a matter of re-drilling the holes to mount the shell, but its still a pain, so I try to get the originals to last as long as I can..
 
Hi Ray, I had a similar problem with higher driving temperatures with my radiator which is original to my car.
I used Prestone Super Radiator Flush in my model A radiator. I bought it at a local automotive store for under $5. The instructions say it is non-toxic, non-acidic formula and it is safe for all cooling system metals. It quickly helps to flush out rust deposits and oily residue to maximize your cooling system efficiency.
I removed the radiator cap, drained my radiator, then closed the petcock. Followed the instructions and added the entire contents (22 ounces) into the radiator and filled the radiator with water. Replaced the radiator cap, then drove my car for 5-10 miles. Let the car cool, drained the radiator and was surprised to see all the dirty water in the drain pan. Filled my radiator with water and water wetter and have had a cooler engine driving temperature ever since.
I hope this helps.
Jim
 
I had very good luck with my original radiator by having it rodded by someone who knew what they were doing. It had about 20 clogged tubes, and he cleared all but 2-3. It made all the difference and it still fits perfect. Radiator flush treatments and even boiling them out cannot do the job rodding can, if it is really plugged. But this has to be done very carefully!
 
Do you have a sealed (non-greasable) waterpump? I do now, but between the previous owners and my own overzealous greasing of the rear bearing of the waterpump, the radiator god a gloppy coating of grease everywhere..

I drained my cooling system, ran about 4 cups of Super Purple (try Orange solvent or simple green as well) along with water, ran it for about 10 minutes and then ran it at fast idle with cardboard over the front to raise the temp as high as I felt safe and then let the temp come down a bit.. I them pulled out the drain petcock from the waterpipe and let the greasy slime run out as I added fresh water at about the same rate into the top of the radiator.. After about 5 minutes the water coming out the bottom was clear and I shut down the system to let it drain completely.. Looked in the radiator and it looked brand new.. No leaks or other issues, and it runs about 30-40 degrees cooler now with new antifreeze 50/50 in it..

My 2 cents :) - Dave in Boise
 
Ray, Slow down with all the 'thoughts of changes' take another temperature gauge and stick that into the top-o-rad for a reading. Right in the flowing water. See what you have after 20 minutes idling in the driveway. Of course very thing must be spot-on. Timing, Advance, Mixture, Oil [you'd be surprised how much cooling oil does]...then if she's still running at 190 deg F or so I'd look at the integrity of the fins to the vertical cooling tubes. Do you have a rattly radiator? You moving water? Unpressurized system so nothing is going to blow up.
To verify cooling of anykind. Hot water at top, cooler water at bottom as felt by a hand or read by a contact thermometer.
I run Wetter Water, R/O water with 50/50 mix, no thermostat, two blade fan, bone stock everything else. About 160 deg F all the time.



I realize that a 50/50 mix does not cool as well as straight water, but the car runs at the prescribed temperature OK with this mix. So I'm inclined to keep the mix in. If she gets hot, I'll make a change.

Additionally the best thing I did was to lower the amount of water in the rad, let it seak it's own level and put new gaskets on the lower mount and on the quail and under the quail. That way any overflow goes out the overflow tube and not on the bonnet and windscreen.

skip

6f81b19f3f6caa8ca0abdbb37f5f61850_s.jpg


77e7a5f7166117188b1740c97db886960_l.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks to all that gave me some food for thought. In the next several days I will get an opportunity to spend some time with my problem and will report back what I came up with. This sure is a great place to get super suggestions. Thanks, Ray
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top