Cooling problem

WGA....
Radiator is 7 row built by Custom Auto Radiator in NJ. Bought it new. Supposed to be high efficiency. Not that old, or should say, not that many miles on it. Have not tested for exhaust gas, but will be my next step. The stats are the type that are mounted in a cylinder, so they can't turn over in the hose. I've tried running both with and without stats.
The ignition is Mallory Electronic, crab style.
 
My Merc flattie in a 49 Ford always ran marginally hot (200-205) with a 4 row radiator 3/8 tubes/14 fins per inch and stock 3 blade fan on an 80-degree day. Very conventional setup for its day

After 25 years the radiator finally gave up.

Much to my chagrin (flying in the face of conventional geezer wisdom) the local shop (Mac’s Radiator Portland Oregon) suggested a 3 row ¾ inch dimpled tubes (equivalent in depth to a conventional 4 row) and 17 fins per inch. According to them the 3/4 tube size give more surface area AND longer "dwell time" for the fluid to sit in the radiator and transfer heat. The smaller tube sizes the faster the water must move to satisfy the pumps.

Fin count is kind of a tricky balance. Higher fin count equals better heat transfer but more restrictive airflow

Because of airflow concerns I installed a late 90s Taurus SVO 2 speed fan and shroud (fits the 8Ba radiator like it belonged there). Using a Volvo controller and 2 temp switches (185 on/175 off and 195 on/185 off) in the bottom tank. I put the temp switches in the bottom tank because they monitor radiator temp. The engine thermostats regulate engine temp

On an 80-degree day it runs 180 and bumps the low speed fan switch once in a while @ 65MPH/2400RPM using a 50/50 mix. At a stop light it will cycle the low speed. Never has switch on the high speed side.

Hope this helps, I know I sure learned a lot
 
....Hey GM..
I did the laser thermometer thing yesterday... Fairly warm day, and temp gauge said 200.
Immediately did the laser on the head water neck, the chrome radiator hose tubes, the top radiator tank, and the radiator core. All readings were in the 150-160 range. Probably not truly representative of the inner temp, but I think reality is somewhere between the laser and the gauge....
So I'm not going to worry about it!
Thanks all
 
CCJake, normal boiling point is 212 degrees at sea level.
A 7 pound cap raises the boiling point (4 degree per pound )to 240 degrees.
I think you are o.k. at the temperatures you are reporting.
 
cavecreekjake said:
....Hey GM..
I did the laser thermometer thing yesterday... Fairly warm day, and temp gauge said 200.
Immediately did the laser on the head water neck, the chrome radiator hose tubes, the top radiator tank, and the radiator core. All readings were in the 150-160 range. Probably not truly representative of the inner temp, but I think reality is somewhere between the laser and the gauge....
So I'm not going to worry about it!
Thanks all
Click to expand...

You have to believe what you SEE, assumptions are only a guess. Sounds
like your only problem was the gauge. I still don't like the type stats you
are using, they restrict the flow. G.M.
 
GM....
Not using stats.... Got the ones that Skip recommended, but took them out after initial run heated up the same way.
(Skip recommended them, and said they opened up larger than other stats, but they have the same size opening - 1" or less - as what I had before)
Going to run it as is..
Thx
 
cavecreekjake said:
GM....
Not using stats.... Got the ones that Skip recommended, but took them out after initial run heated up the same way.
(Skip recommended them, and said they opened up larger than other stats, but they have the same size opening - 1" or less - as what I had before)
Going to run it as is..
Thx
Click to expand...

Try the stats Skip recommended now that you have the laser pointed
thermometer. Check the laser in an air conditioned house so you know
it reads somewhere accurate. If the temperature in the room is say 78
all the objects in the room should be close to 78. G.M.
 
BE sure the engine is off when you use a IR thermometer. The cheaper ones wont read right due to interference with the ignition. Mine reads 50 degrees cooler if the engine is running due to this.
 
35fordtn said:
BE sure the engine is off when you use a IR thermometer. The cheaper ones wont read right due to interference with the ignition. Mine reads 50 degrees cooler if the engine is running due to this.
Click to expand...

I have never had this problem in 20 years. You need to stay about
18 or 20"s away from the plug wires. The early ones were affected
by transmitted signals would cause them lose the display, if turned
off and on a few times it would recover but I had a few that went
bad. I took them back and got replacements. I haven't had any
problems in a number of years. I think they may have added some
protection or I learned how to use them. The engine needs to be
running to take readings every 5 minutes and record them for about
20 minutes. I use a large fan against the front of the grill when testing.
I also have the engine running at a pretty fast Idle. I find the readings
you get is what you will get at cruising speeds. These cars don't like
to sit to long at idle or stop and go traffic in warm weather. G.M.
 
Last edited:
Cavecreekjake, You said you wanted a hot engine when we built it 5-6-7 years ago. LOL I think your on the right track, keep playing with the laser gun. Not the gun you shoot bottles with and wearing cowboy boots. I ran into that pic a few days ago going through some of my paper junk. Walt
 
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