cooling and heating problem

[FlatheadTed]

Akmarty just to add another slant on the upward clime the radiator/fan is not efficient enough to cool the engine 215 F is over boiling point ,on the down ward run the thermostats should be fully closed trapping all the hot water in the block until 160 is achieved .its appears your thermostats, are not doing there job .on around town driving the fan is just enough to keep it at a working temperature . thermostats were meant to replace shutters on radiators ,Henry covers that in post 9 Ted

 

[scooder]

Yup, thermostats are ment to keep hot water in the block till they need to open, if the water goes around them "one of them is physicaly larger taking up more room" she'll not get up to temp in the cold.
Martin.

 

[Old Henry]

Old Henry, with my apologies, it does look like your post number 6 comes pretty close to the actual problem! How about you telling akmarty what kind of stats you use to get him going without coolant blowing right past his closed stats?

The Stant 14157 thermostat that was made for the 1990 Subaru Justy fits perfectly and is higher flow than any other that fits your car. Here's why: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143576
Sold by NAPA as part number THM 111, or O'Reilly part number 2962 which is also Murray part number 4157. All the same stat. The original style thermostat is ford part number is 11A 8575 B and is sold by C&G here: http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search+%23&year_choice=37&searchtextdesc=thermostat&searchnumber=11A-8575-BHT&sp=Search+%23 But is a lower flow than the Stant one.

Here are other threads on the topic:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112889

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113366

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113979

P.S. Don't use the rubber gasket that the Stant stat comes with. It just rolls off and jams up. Just take it off and chuck it before installing the stat. Also, to secure the stat from pushing up, turning 90° and not working, secure it with one very thin strand of stranded wire as follows:

.

 

[FlatheadTed]

Here another option were the thermostat is fitted to a stainless pipe this should be welded .As my previous post ,Some years back I drilled three holes in a stat I found this passed to much water ,if you look at a modern stat the hole is maybe 1/16 ,Ted

 

[Old Henry]

Here another option were the thermostat is fitted to a stainless pipe this should be welded .As my previous post ,Some years back I drilled three holes in a stat I found this passed to much water ,if you look at a modern stat the hole is maybe 1/16 ,Ted

I have done some experimenting and this is what I found out .The thermostats needs to be near the neck of the out let eg pump or head ,a 1/8 hole is needed to purge out the cold water in the neck so it can start to open on contact with the hot water .It also must be secured from any leakage ,I drilld 3 -3/32 holes in mine and could not get it up to temperature in the winter as the holes passed more water than desired so the thermostats would not open only when the complete water system was up to about 180 F ,The standard/stock pump pumps more water than you would believe and will pump around a non clamped thermostat .The thermostat does not cool the engine the radiator does, and a more efficient radiator is desired than what the motor needs then the thermostats regulates the flow and keeps the engine up to running temperature .Ted

If the thermostats are working they should keep the Temp up to a optimum working environment, you need a ss tube welded to them and clamped over the out side rubber hose ,with a 1/8 bleed hole otherwise the water will be pumped around them in the hose ,Ted

It looks like you are referring to the "in-hose" thermostats which akmarty doesn't have. His sits on the head neck like mine, not in the hose needing welded to a tube and clamped around the hose.