Coolant

J

jeepguy1948

Well-known member
Is there a better choice for coolant than good old antifreeze? Is there a downside to anti freeze? I do not need freeze protection so anti freeze is not mandatory. I know that there is at least 2 types of antifreeze as well.
 
One benefit of antifreeze is that you can run any percentage of it you want- 20%, 33%, etc. - and you’ll get all the corrosion protection of antifreeze with a cooling capacity close to water. There are charts online where you can map the absolute lowest temperature you might see to the percentage antifreeze you need. This also means you don’t run the risk of forgetting to drain the coolant if an unexpected freeze occurs.
 
I've noticed lately that some of the new type coolant/antifreeze says not to use in radiators with solder in them. It can eat the solder.
 
Dodge said:
I've noticed lately that some of the new type coolant/antifreeze says not to use in radiators with solder in them. It can eat the solder.
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Yes, always use the coolant formulated for older radiators. I use Peak with the green cap for 1989 and before.

One thing that is seldom mentioned is not only does coolant prevent freezing but also raises the boiling point.
 
up here you better have antifreeze, but you better have coolant as well.
i use good old prestone concentrate (coolant/antifreeze) and ad water accordingly to make the rite freeze point. i have not had a boil over with it in the summer. and yes we can get a bit of heat up here too.

all it takes is one night in the winter with water and you will never forget antifreeze again.
 
Having a great deal of experience building off-road rock crawling Jeeps with big engine/small grill area issues, I’ve spent far too time researching cooling issues. This really helped when dealing with my own, so common Model A cooling issues.

I had always adhered to the 50/50 antifreeze logic. What a great way to sell more antifreeze. My research showed me that in the “rarely freeze” climate in my area of the California Sierras, l settled on water + 15% antifreeze, which offered the protection I needed/wanted. This combination got me to the results I wanted keeping the old girl cool (another unexpected benefit, the reduction of roadside pauses has kept the wife cooler). Lately I’ve added a bottle of Water Wetter. I know it’s not for everyone but it and MMO make me happy.

My last couple of Model A’s with cooling issues were ultimately cured with new radiators. Had I jumped on the problem sooner I’m sure the big radiator expense could have avoided. I’m now such more aggressive with my preventative maintenance.

I apologize for my rambling, so boiled down, I would encourage your research to include information from outside the “Model A” world. Some of our issues are also concerns shared my other Motorsport enthusiasts.
 
I live in an area with hot summers (100+degrees) and some freezing nights in the winter.
Water cools better than anti-freeze. So, in the spring I fill my cooling system with distilled water and a bottle of Water-Wetter and run it until later fall when the temps drop. I then switch to 50/50 anti-freeze for the winter months.
I have tested anti-freeze vs water with Water-Wetter on a hot day. The anti-freeze runs about 8 to 10 degrees hotter than the water mix.
I save the anti-freeze in the original jugs during the summer and reuse in the fall.
I am aware anti-freeze has a higher boiling point. That is not a plus in my world. Why? The water boiling point is 212 degrees and the anti-freeze boiling point is higher. I do not want my engine heating up to 212 degrees let alone a higher boiling point. A good radiator and a clean block are your best friends.
 
Because of where I live I run a 50/50 ratio of traditional green antifreeze year around. If I lived down south I would run distilled water (not well or tap water) along with a lubricant/anti rust agent. It's been proven that water will cool better. As posted above you'll only forget to drain your water once during freezing temps. Winter is an unforgiving and very cruel mistress.
 
Read up on distilled water, it is missing minerals and is hungry for minerals, so iron is a mineral so it will eat your iron block ! De-ionized water is a better choice and the jugs are on the same shelf at my stores and about the same price . Condenser water from your a/c or dehumidifier is probably the best option !
 
Big hammer said:
Read up on distilled water, it is missing minerals and is hungry for minerals, so iron is a mineral so it will eat your iron block ! De-ionized water is a better choice and the jugs are on the same shelf at my stores and about the same price . Condenser water from your a/c or dehumidifier is probably the best option !
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Yes, good catch. I intended to say de-ionized water. Thanks!
 
Holy smokes! I’ve been using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water + antifreeze all along! Does “Eating up your iron block” mean rust? How wonder how long it will take until it creates a problem?
 
David in San Antonio said:
Holy smokes! I’ve been using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water + antifreeze all along! Does “Eating up your iron block” mean rust? How wonder how long it will take until it creates a problem?
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It's my understanding that it takes quite a while. Some home heating systems using radiators are/were filled with antifreeze+water and I believe that's where the most importance is emphasized. Those closed systems used cast iron and are known to run for decades without ever being opened up. As was mentioned de-ionized water is readily available and only slightly higher priced. Of course you could always used the green 50/50 premix that already has water in it.
 
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It is a myth that distilled water + antifreeze pulls iron from the block. The antifreeze itself provides more than enough ions to neutralize the water. This is not something anyone should worry about.
 
My car lives in a heated garage (and it rarely gets below freezing here) so freezing is not an issue.
De ionized water, got it.
Would Water Wetter be the last piece of the puzzle?
 
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