converting clock to 12v

What needs to be done to convert the early ford clocks when converting to a 12v negative ground system?
Who can service these clocks and also convert to 12v?
 
My 47 clock runs on a spring that is wound every few minutes by an instantaneous connection with a solenoid. The instant it is connected it is disconnected so there's virtually no current flow through the solenoid coil and it wouldn't matter whether that momentary connection is 6 V or 12 V. I would think all of the old clocks are the same.
 
Dropping resistor are available from Fifth Avenue Internet Garage and other sources if you need to drop voltage down. The 12 to 14.5 volts in a 12-volt system may not affect the clock but it depends on how the clock is manufactured. It may shorten the clock's life span some.
 
Instead of converting the mechanism, you might want to consider simply replacing it with the quartz mechanism from a cheap battery wall clock. $4 at Walmart. I've done this with old dash and glovebox clocks, using just the original face and sometimes the original hands or close facsimiles thereof. Affix the quartz mechanism to the clock faceback with a few dabs of water-based caulking. The only clue that it's not the original mechanism is that the clock keeps suspiciously accurate time. 8^)


Jack E/NJ
 
As mentioned above, many old clocks are spring-wound by an intermittent electric motor, the correct rotation of which might sometimes be dependent on the ground polarity.

Jack E/NJ
 
I am aware of voltage drop resistors.
The gauges do not care the polarity.
Now the question, is the clock spring/solenoid or motor driven?
You have all given me some good ideas.
I have some extras that I may experiment with.
dave-TX
 
Just did a test on a spring wound 6 volt pos. gnd. clock using 12 volts neg. ground.
Worked perfectly. The action throws the solenoid driven weight leaver to wind the spring and opens the points to instantaneously cut the juice to wait for the next closing of points to rewind the clock.
 
Convert to a quartz movement. If done correctly no one will ever know and they keep perfect time.
 
I took 3 different clocks of the 46-48 range, and removed covers.
All 3 are the solenoid type.
First step was to lightly blow air to clear any dust.
Next a liberal spray of wd40. The oscillating wheels all moved freely after rotating the weight lever. The points were open. Allowed to run about 4 minutes and noted that points closed. Applied 6 volts, and current was approximately 2 amps.
However the solenoid would not move the weight lever in all 3 clocks.
Also the solenoids did not care if the polarity was neg or pos.
Same results with 12 volts.
I understand converting to the quartz clock, but I am a little stubborn and want to find out why this isn't working.
 
I had my '47 solenoid clock repaired and converted to 12v by "The Clock Works." Prompt reasonable service. The tension on the lever was off. Has been running sweet for three years now.
 
I've been running the electric clock in my 50 Ford for ten years on 12 volts. No problems yet. Just make sure the points are in good condition. If they look burn't get a point file and clean them up.
 
First step was to lightly blow air to clear any dust.
Next a liberal spray of wd40. .
WD-40 isn't very good for long term use.
One of my hobbies is alarm clocks, the old wind-up types.
After removing the hands and face, I would spray paint thinner or Varsol thru the works with a plastic spray bottle, then blow out the thinner.
Put a small amount of clock oil (or 5W20 synthetic oil) in a small jar and dip a long needle in the oil, use the needle to place one drop on each pivot/shaft.
...Terry
 
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