Convertible top hydraulic lines

daoust

daoust

Member
Can anyone tell me how the hydraulic lines were routed from the pump back to the cylinders in 46-48 Ford convertibles? Is there a routing diagram schematic somewhere? Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
They were routed inside the car along the body edge on drivers side , routed in hole in rear seat riser to a junction block for connection to cylinders. They came down inside of the firewall from diverter. Pipes were side by side all the way with clamps to hold them in place. Hope this makes sense. The original were steel a real bear to get the right bents & lay flst
 
Thank you very much. While I'd like stay stay as original as possible, it seems to me that won't be a particularly viable option. I see the original pump only pumped in one direction and relied on the switch/valve assembly. I have the original pump and switch/valve but I have no idea if they're operable. I just want to power the top again and if the mechanism has to be a bit more modern than original, so be it. I can't be the first person to encounter this situation so if anyone has any experiences/advice they'd like to share, please feel free.

I have been in touch with a parts manufacturer in Rhode Island and it looks like they can help me. One piece of information I need is for the hydraulic lines. How did they route and how long do they need to be? Will the Ford Body Parts catalog provide this information?

Thanks again.
 
flathead48 said:
They were routed inside the car along the body edge on drivers side , routed in hole in rear seat riser to a junction block for connection to cylinders. They came down inside of the firewall from diverter. Pipes were side by side all the way with clamps to hold them in place. Hope this makes sense. The original were steel a real bear to get the right bents & lay flst
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good candidate for Copper/Nickel.
 
The diagram is on page 301 of the 1944-1952 Ford Body Parts Catalog for Passenger cars and trucks. If you want a photo of it I can text you one. Regarding the lines you may want to consider contacting Hydro-E-Lectric, Paul Cabral at (941) 639-0437. He can make you Hose lines, non-metal, to fit.
 
I decided to put everything under the rear seat, I got tired of the diverter dripping ATF ON MY clutch food, wired up a 3 way toggle switch and left the original motor on outside of firewall along with diverter under dash but was happy to get rid of the lines .
 
If the original motor is all electric, then installing it under the rear seat is the way to go. While I have a "modernized" 48 conv, (12V included), I used a later model motor under the the back seat. Makes for a clean installation with less worries about getting hydraulic fluid all over the place. Plus everything is in one place for servicing
 
So if I'm understanding correctly, you guys are suggesting that any new motor be placed under the back seat rather than on the engine compartment firewall? Shorter hydraulic lines but a longer switch line running from under the back seat to the dash? The more modern set-ups don't use a diverter as the pump works in both directions. But the modern hoses are rubber rather than steel and I'd rather not have to runner the rubber lines under through the firewall and under the floor mat. Does that make sense?
 
While I know you asked about running new lines, I think it's worth mentioning that if you're rebuilding the hydraulic (original) system, go with ATF instead of the original brake fluid approach.
And, if you're disassembling the original system with brake fluid in it, be VERY careful!!! You don't want that stuff on any painted surface!! (Lessons from rebuilding my '47 system!!!):eek:
 
If use a new set up everything including the motor goes under the back seat, the lines are all there and is a nice neat package
 
So my '47 has an original pump motor mounted on the engine compartment firewall and an original switch/valve/diverter mounted on the firewall under the dash. The power top has never worked. My thought is to put new/modern components in the car so the top can operate again. I like the whole idea of putting everything under the back seat and just running wiring under the mat from the front, keeping all the hydraulic lines in back.

I can get new 6 volt pumps, lines, cylinders, switches and hardware from suppliers, but I don't know what else could be missing from the original set-up that I might need to replace - specifically the counterbalance spring which no one seems to offer anymore (51A-7150420).

Has anyone else here tried to undertake what I'm considering here? What were your challenges and results? This whole project will cost in the neighborhood of $1500 but I don't want to undertake it just to get lousy results. Managing the convertible top manually isn't that big a deal.

Thoughts?

By the way: One way or the other the old pump and switch/valve/diverter are coming out if anyone has interest in those for possible rebuilds. No point keeping them in there if they don't do anything.

Thanks.
 
Hydro - e -lectric in Florida had the counterbalance springs at one time. I got mine from them but that was long ago. Have you tried them?
 
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